250w Phoenix 14k VS 50w DIY multichip

Joe Lydon

Joe Lydon

New member
I bought an LED chip awhile back to try out on a 40b. Since then, the kids and I consolodated their tanks into one larger system for a few reasons. I've been having some heat issues since consolidating the 40b's because the new system has a canopy. I decided to wire up the LED set and see what it looked like on the 90 gallon. The chip is rated for 1600ma and I'm using a waterproof AC dimmable 0-1500ma driver. The LED kit came with a heatsink and 41cfm fan and I wasn't sure how to mount it on the tank. Ended up using a 4" pvc coupling. Just so happens the LED kit fits like a glove, so it looks somewhat professional. I will end up painting and clearcoating the hood when I get a chance. I found a clip light for $12 that I gutted and attached to the pvc. It's not strong enough to support the light, so I threw a pvc pipe across for now, but I will figure out a pretty brace system. I like that it's movable. The kit came with a lens, but I didn't use it. The chip is supposedly 20k, but it's pretty on point with the phoenix 14k. Eithet way, I'm gonna get a tek 2 bulb retro kit with some blue+ bulbs. I will probably get 100w chips, so I can run them at 50-70% power.

The 250w is on the left. The LED gives more shimmer. Both lights are same distance from water, they are much bluer than it shows and not as bright as my crappy phone cam makes them out to be.
2013-03-06_14-02-33_757_zps2fb0b8a9.jpg


I put this together quick and didn't have time to make it pretty.
2013-03-06_14-05-55_467_zpsed500531.jpg
 
Thanks, Guys! Now I just have to order the other side.. I may wait awhile to see how the right side holds up. The light looks nearly identical on each side, so at least it won't look weird. I will try and get some better photos with my point and shoot camera.
 
You should swap them sides and put up the pic one after the other to compare directly. But as of now looks awesome!
 
yogoshio said:
You should swap them sides and put up the pic one after the other to compare directly. But as of now looks awesome!
Click to expand...

I'll get some shots like that tomorrow. Here are some shots of the actual fixture. I'm an automotive painter, so I'm gonna shoot the pvc couplings gloss black later this week.

2013-03-06_20-44-02_622_zps8f5bcdac.jpg

2013-03-06_20-43-24_217_zps1ff02cd9.jpg

2013-03-06_20-42-58_925_zpsce68b68f.jpg
 
Here's a better comparison...

250w 14k Phoenix
8537473961_69ced1074a_b.jpg


50w 20k multichip @ 1500ma
8537463453_85a32a0443_b.jpg


The 50w seems to have higher intensity and better coverage. Both bulbs were at the same height for the photos.

Same shutter speed, aperture and white balance on an sx30 is powershot point and shoot.
 
Your custom LED light looks awesome! Im looking at gettin into some leds soon. where did you get this diy led kit and what do they run $$$?
 
Hey guys, this is the stuff I used.

Here is the original kit I purchased. I used everything but the driver and lens.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221182458169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Here is the driver I ended up buying and is what's driving the LED in my sample photos. I like it, because you don't have to fiddle around with finding the right DC converter. Just clip the end of a .99 extension cord, and you're good to go. This thing will dim from ~2%-100%.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320896277674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ended up buying the 2nd LED kit, and this is where I started messing up. It was labeled 20,000k, and it was nowhere near as blue as the first kit I bought, but it did come with the dimmable driver. It's still usable, a very crisp white, like a white flame. Definitely supplement with ATI actinics.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221182458175?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ended up purchasing two of these multichips. They were rated 25-30k in color. These are also NOT as blue as the chip in the first kit I bought, but they are a touch brighter. They do come close in blue, and would be great if you planned to use some ATI blue+ supplements. These are nice chips, and I plan to use them both.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22119305932...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I also have a pair of these on order. 420nm 20w multichips. This is said to be a great wavelength to make corals glow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270935350932?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The 50w chips, without a lens, punch all the way to the 24" sandbed. I don't have a PAR meter, as it would be useless anyway. The handheld units are more/less sensitive to wavelengths that may or may not even be utilized by coral, and would also be inconclusive VS testing par on a metal halide. I've also read that anything under a $10,000 PAR instrument is considered a toy. So, I will assess everything day by day. As far as I can tell, everything was just as happy under the LED for 2 weeks, as they were under the halide. So, I'm content with that.

At 9" above the water, I get a nice 3' spread on the sand bed, without a lens. I am pretty certain these will at least grow SPS in the top 2nd half, without the lens, and SPS at any level, with the lens. but don't quote me.

There are also 100w versions to play with, for not too much more money.
 
Joe Lydon said:
Hey guys, this is the stuff I used.

Here is the original kit I purchased. I used everything but the driver and lens.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221182458169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Here is the driver I ended up buying and is what's driving the LED in my sample photos. I like it, because you don't have to fiddle around with finding the right DC converter. Just clip the end of a .99 extension cord, and you're good to go. This thing will dim from ~2%-100%.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/320896277674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ended up buying the 2nd LED kit, and this is where I started messing up. It was labeled 20,000k, and it was nowhere near as blue as the first kit I bought, but it did come with the dimmable driver. It's still usable, a very crisp white, like a white flame. Definitely supplement with ATI actinics.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221182458175?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I ended up purchasing two of these multichips. They were rated 25-30k in color. These are also NOT as blue as the chip in the first kit I bought, but they are a touch brighter. They do come close in blue, and would be great if you planned to use some ATI blue+ supplements. These are nice chips, and I plan to use them both.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/22119305932...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I also have a pair of these on order. 420nm 20w multichips. This is said to be a great wavelength to make corals glow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270935350932?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

The 50w chips, without a lens, punch all the way to the 24" sandbed. I don't have a PAR meter, as it would be useless anyway. The handheld units are more/less sensitive to wavelengths that may or may not even be utilized by coral, and would also be inconclusive VS testing par on a metal halide. I've also read that anything under a $10,000 PAR instrument is considered a toy. So, I will assess everything day by day. As far as I can tell, everything was just as happy under the LED for 2 weeks, as they were under the halide. So, I'm content with that.

At 9" above the water, I get a nice 3' spread on the sand bed, without a lens. I am pretty certain these will at least grow SPS in the top 2nd half, without the lens, and SPS at any level, with the lens. but don't quote me.

There are also 100w versions to play with, for not too much more money.
Click to expand...

Man that was intense reading! Lol

Good luck man. Post pics when u can.... And thanks for stopping by yesterday.
 
So what your saying the 50w led chip is equivalent to a 250w mh? This is an awesome comparison and build very nice.
and is your driver dimmable?
 
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