SPS Experts - Assistance Needed!

IHaveCrabs said:
So for all of you that said high light, what do you consider too high? It is not over 250 par in these areas.


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250 par is not high enough for most sps some like it like red dragon likes it some rainbow acros do ok i found 300 to 500ish to be where i get my best colors
 
madjoe said:
250 par is not high enough for most sps some like it like red dragon likes it some rainbow acros do ok i found 300 to 500ish to be where i get my best colors
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I'm questioning my choice of my 6x54 ATI over my 120 now.

First, I plan on replacing the actinics with a higher PAR bulb for sure.


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IHaveCrabs said:
I'm questioning my choice of my 6x54 ATI over my 120 now.

First, I plan on replacing the actinics with a higher PAR bulb for sure.


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I have a ati 6 bulb fixture over my 4ft 150 wish i got 8bulb but added 2 kessils 150 ocean blue and corals look great lower spots arent the best for sps with that set up but they live probably gonna end up adding 2 more kessils 160 in the front we shall see would of been cheaper to just get the 8 bulb dimmable lol although the shimmer is great with kessils
 
Here is a better picture of how the coral actually looks though..

Precious ones were taken at night with a white LeD flashlight. These were taken under T5 with filter.

e28b1b64c15d7d515d110d9008555d5f.jpg



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IHaveCrabs said:
Here is a better picture of how the coral actually looks though..

Precious ones were taken at night with a white LeD flashlight. These were taken under T5 with filter.

e28b1b64c15d7d515d110d9008555d5f.jpg



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Looking good now...You may need some Led strips :) Infidel
 
So the one that looks like hawkins echinata should do good around the 250 mark in that pic non look bad just not full color yet . I run no atinic bulbs i run 4 blue plus 1 purple plus 1 coral plus
 
madjoe said:
So the one that looks like hawkins echinata should do good around the 250 mark in that pic non look bad just not full color yet . I run no atinic bulbs i run 4 blue plus 1 purple plus 1 coral plus
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Yeah it does. Crazy to think that goes for $50-80 for frags 1-2" and I bought a mini colony for $25 without the blue tips!

I agree, done with the actinic. Might replace with another E5..


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IHaveCrabs said:
Yeah it does. Crazy to think that goes for $50-80 for frags 1-2" and I bought a mini colony for $25 without the blue tips!

I agree, done with the actinic. Might replace with another E5..


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Oh u using leds in u t5 fixture idk if any body really knows how thise work yet to new i bought t5 to use t5 bulbs they get the best color out of corals i did add kessils cause i missed the shimmer and i here those e5 do even give u shimmer . Hope tgey work out for ya
 
madjoe said:
Oh u using leds in u t5 fixture idk if any body really knows how thise work yet to new i bought t5 to use t5 bulbs they get the best color out of corals i did add kessils cause i missed the shimmer and i here those e5 do even give u shimmer . Hope tgey work out for ya
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Yeah I bought a few Blue Pop to test them out. Only have one per fixture right now as I'm concerned that I'll lose the benefit of T5 by replacing too many. I really wanted it for the blue LEDs and a little shimmer.


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IHaveCrabs said:
Comparison after being in the new tank with the ATI fixture in around 260-275 PAR...

8eeeea39d6154488b4ca0918660a6c28.jpg


Edit.. Picture was taken with an orange filter which did alter it a bit

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So you increased the par by 10-25 and that changed the coloration that much??? It seemed to me like initially you had a old current LED and replaced with an ATI and then later you got a better coloration after running the ATI and removing the USA current LED light? if this is true, clearly it was a light issue to begin with but how could you say that it was too little light if you were to switch from LED's to MH since switching would mean that comparing the outcome after increasing the par of the lighting is hard to do especially since I have heard that Par readings on LED's can be wildly inaccurate compared to par reading on MH's/T5's. I would be more inclined to jump on board with your rationale if the increased coloration happened after increasing the par while using the same light. Maybe I am missing something here or I read the thread wrong and sorry if that is so. Regardless I really appreciate your input and time you spend answering my newbie questions!!

Thanks!

Ryan
 
Rcunning8 said:
So you increased the par by 10-25 and that changed the coloration that much??? It seemed to me like initially you had a old current LED and replaced with an ATI and then later you got a better coloration after running the ATI and removing the USA current LED light? if this is true, clearly it was a light issue to begin with but how could you say that it was too little light if you were to switch from LED's to MH since switching would mean that comparing the outcome after increasing the par of the lighting is hard to do especially since I have heard that Par readings on LED's can be wildly inaccurate compared to par reading on MH's/T5's. I would be more inclined to jump on board with your rationale if the increased coloration happened after increasing the par while using the same light. Maybe I am missing something here or I read the thread wrong and sorry if that is so. Regardless I really appreciate your input and time you spend answering my newbie questions!!

Thanks!

Ryan
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No worries about the confusion. PAR increased from 120ish to 260ish.

I have two tanks in one system so water quality is the same.

60 gallon had a current USA T5 6 bulb light. Took par readings from 75 to 150 max.

Moved the coral to the 120..

120 gallon has an ATI 6 bulb getting 120 on the sand bed to 700 at the surface. I moved the coral to a spot that was between 260-275 PAR and am seeing amazing results. This is for SPS though.. My chalices and acans I keep below 90 par and some well below that.

The better coloration, mostly the reduction of pale skin, happened upon moving from lower PAR to higher PAR for this coral specifically. Other SPS also showed positive results moving also.


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