Battling Cyano...

[DKST227]

It's fun. I'm trying to rid my tank of a Cyano outbreak without using chemicals for the past couple weeks. My main concern with chemicals is killing off beneficial bacteria or anything else when using them. Additionally - I want to find the root of the issue and not use chemicals for a few days and have the Cyano return.

A little background - I am running a 210g mixed reef. It was officially launched about 3 years ago from my 75g but it has been moved several times. So - the 210 has been in its current place for almost 1 year which obviously causes some new tank syndrome from moving it (a bit of cycling). Recently I added a few fish and perhaps that threw the bioload off causing this outbreak since I was intentionally over feeding with the new fish.

My stats are below:
Salinity: 1.024
PH: 8.2
Mag: 1450
Alk: 10.9 dKH
Calcium: 480 ppm
Nitrate: 1 ppm
Phosphate: 0 ppm
Temp: 75
No ammonia

For the past two weeks I have been doing 15% water changes every few days while brushing the rocks off and sucking out the cyano during the water changes. I added an additional power head for more water movement as well. I seem to be managing the Cyano level but not reducing it. It comes back daily and it is irritating some corals. Any other ideas before I take the plunge in Cyano Rx or Chemiclean?

 

[Mjl714]

I’d stay your course, and reduce feeding. I’m assuming you use RODI?

 

[Cubano32]

I was in the same situation as you 3 weeks ago and I started dosing MicroBacter 7 and MicroBacter Clean and within 2 weeks time of dosing everyday it started going away I highly suggest looking it up and giving it a shot..I didn't do any blackout period or didn't adjust my feeding or cut back on light schedule all I did was turn my skimmer off for about 4 hours after dosing it then turn it back on

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[Cubano32]

Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again

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[sk8elenex92]

Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.

 

[DKST227]

Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.

Weird enough my ATO container was reading high even though I test the water that goes in. I replaced the container with a new one so I'm sure it will help the situation.

 

[DKST227]

Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again

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Isn't the MicroBacter for starting new tanks or not necessarily?

 

[Cubano32]

Isn't the MicroBacter for starting new tanks or not necessarily?

That would be MicroBacter star xlm

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[Sawdonkey]

Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.

Was your container leaching something?

 

[Sawdonkey]

I never had much luck with Microbacter7. Didn’t notice a change. Chemiclean on the other hand knocked my cyano out with no issues. I know it doesn’t solve your underlying issue, but it will get you through the uglies. I’ve used it a few times over the years.

I think time is the key to your underlying issues.

 

[sk8elenex92]

Was your container leaching something?

Not sure if it wasn’t covered enough or what but I always noticed a slime on the glass as well.

 

[DKST227]

Was your container leaching something?

I don’t think so. I think it just had some of my dosing chemicals in there by me being sloppy was all. But to be safe I cleared it and I’m feeding my ato from a 5 gallon jug to eliminate any potential issues.

 

[oceanfreak09]

Just wondering why you run your temp so low? At that temp I would think that if you had a problem with a heater that it would become dangerously low so quickly. As far the cyano I would recommend not scrubbing the rocks and letting it just run its course. Maybe move corals that are being affected to a new place.


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[Deezill]

Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

When using the MB7 did you turn off skimming and other filtration? I use it too and it does help with the brown stuff. However, for Cyano, I use Chemiclean to knock it out of the park.
Let me know about turning off filtration when using MB7. I hate having to turn off filtration for four hours but thats what the instructions tell me to do.

 

[Cubano32]

When using the MB7 did you turn off skimming and other filtration? I use it too and it does help with the brown stuff. However, for Cyano, I use Chemiclean to knock it out of the park.
Let me know about turning off filtration when using MB7. I hate having to turn off filtration for four hours but thats what the instructions tell me to do.

I only turn off my skimmer that's all

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[DKST227]

Just wondering why you run your temp so low? At that temp I would think that if you had a problem with a heater that it would become dangerously low so quickly. As far the cyano I would recommend not scrubbing the rocks and letting it just run its course. Maybe move corals that are being affected to a new place.


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I’ve always kept a temp around 75. I used to have a blue dot jaw fish for a couple years and ran the temp on the lower end of the reef spectrum for that reason. Never changed it I guess. What do most people run, 78? Also - I run two heaters that can back each other up if needed for a little safety from a failure.

 

[coral49]

Use a UV.. it will knock it out in about a week. Then no chemical games. Doesn't have to be a monster one to do the trick

 

[oceanfreak09]

I’ve always kept a temp around 75. I used to have a blue dot jaw fish for a couple years and ran the temp on the lower end of the reef spectrum for that reason. Never changed it I guess. What do most people run, 78? Also - I run two heaters that can back each other up if needed for a little safety from a failure.

Yeah I believe between 78 and 80 is what i see most. I run mine at 79.
glad to hear you are running multiple heaters. Always extra insurance when doing that. But also wanted to point out that say there was a power outage you may have a longer window before things go south.

I do think running low temperatures are good when tanks are becoming hot because of hot days and no air-conditioning wether it be by choice or a power outage.


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[wrasse]

Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.

I had a similar issue. I changed my ATO container so as to let in as little outside air as possible. just a place for water in and water out. The ATO container a a plastic dog food container. No more slimy water. I may be mistaken, but I think the RO/DI water may attract dust.