Bryan's Cadlights Artisan II 70G Mixed Reef

ThePorkchopExpress said:
I know I've been meaning to come by and check out your new setup. Maybe this weekend I can bring over your red planet
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ill text you :) this weekend and the next (may be the next one after that too ) is fully occupied as its kiddos first bday next weekend and family is flying in for the party :) lol im making water now at this hour so i dont have to worry about that part later ..
 
ThePorkchopExpress said:
Sweet! What are you getting?

For the most part, the majority of acros I get from Dan stay colored up. There are some that don't and turn green and I think it might have to do with the fact that he grows them in his Zeo tank. For instance the TKC King and TCK Dragonfire both turned completely green and has pretty much stayed green the entire time no matter where I put them. But the yellow ones like Gold Rush and Pikachu (I've had 2 Pickachus in the past that died, this is Emmy third) has stayed yellow and the blues like Frostfire and Fruity Pebbles has stayed blue.

I'm using all blues for these pics. When I get a chance I'll take some daylights but the lights were already blue when I got home so I just took all the pictures in it. (Plus daylights are no fun :))
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I definitely agree that it's the zeo to non-zeo system. My buddy tested his alk and it was STUPID low, something like sub 6 dkH if I remember correctly. I now have a Mango Melon and Optimus Prime floating in my sump waiting for the girlfriends friends to leave so I can dip and place them.

Any recommendations on placement for the Optimus?
 
SkullV said:
I definitely agree that it's the zeo to non-zeo system. My buddy tested his alk and it was STUPID low, something like sub 6 dkH if I remember correctly. I now have a Mango Melon and Optimus Prime floating in my sump waiting for the girlfriends friends to leave so I can dip and place them.

Any recommendations on placement for the Optimus?
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Kick them out! Lol...j/k

Wow you got some nice ones. I saw pics of Optimus Prime that one is crazy! I don't have any advice on those, I don't have them. Just ask Dan, he's always wiling to answer all your questions. Basic rule of thumb from him is, if it's yellow it needs high light - 500+ PAR. Anything not yellow is ok in med. light. Doesn't necessarily apply to all so just ask him. For instance, the TCK Grapefruit is pink but it requires low light. It's not even a smooth skin deepwater but apparently it hates being fragged and it hates high light. I have one in my pack and it's brown as hell so I never took a pic. Doesn't even fluoresce...

Yea 6dKH is pretty low. Does anything even grow in alk that low?
 
ThePorkchopExpress said:
speaking of detritus and overflows:

Tip of the Week: Crytal Clear Water

If you want crystal clear water, buy some Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) minimum 97% purity. Amazon sells this. It's basically chalk in fine powder form. Mix 5TB to 230ml and put it into some squeeze bottle. At night time squeeze out about 4-5ml of it into your water. Your water will be cloudy for some time but in the morning it'll be crystal clear. The CaCO3 does not dissolve and does nothing to your water chemistry. What it does do is bind to detritus and helps push it into your overflow. This is basically the active ingredient in KZ Coral Snow but without the Zeovit price.

Crystal clear water on the cheap.

http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/364821-diy-kz-coral-snow-with-97-purity/
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seems 2 be workin pretty well have been doing this for about 3/4 months now.
Bryan
 
I decided on these 2 beauties. They're like twins with reverse coloring.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nice I was thinking about ordering some but with my job it's hard to be home for delivery and no one at home knows what to do for them lol
 
xj_matt said:
Nice I was thinking about ordering some but with my job it's hard to be home for delivery and no one at home knows what to do for them lol
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i usually just work from home on those days i receive packages :)

how's your new WWC Somewhere Over the Rainbow doing? i don't know why but i never realized how beautiful this piece is until this past weekend fragging it...it looks super pink in the frag tank, way more than in the display

View attachment 16450
 
ThePorkchopExpress said:
yea that's one of the reasons i like to have a high turnover...a lot of detritus gets sucked right up into the overflow and into my sock or skimmer or ATS...it leaves my DT pretty clean and thus algae now grows in my sump...my sump is disgusting, it's got so much hair algae and other crap in it but my DT and FT are practically algae-less with only occasional dusting on the glass

i can actually put my 15000 on full blast and the sump can handle it because my drain pipe in the DT is 1.5" and the frag tank is 3/4"
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Sorry to keep bothering you....but my new sump is finally showing up tomorrow and I'll be able to plumb everything in and get this tank going!

It's a 42g versa with a larger tanks sump. I believe 20-22 gallons. They have a 1" drain and a 3/4 return. I'd rather change this right away then wait and wish I did it right away. I would also like a high turnover rate. They sent me a Jebo AP3500 pump. Seems cheap. Any thoughts? I'm afraid if I get too big of a pump it'll be redundant with too small of pipes.
 
jimmers said:
Sorry to keep bothering you....but my new sump is finally showing up tomorrow and I'll be able to plumb everything in and get this tank going!

It's a 42g versa with a larger tanks sump. I believe 20-22 gallons. They have a 1" drain and a 3/4 return. I'd rather change this right away then wait and wish I did it right away. I would also like a high turnover rate. They sent me a Jebo AP3500 pump. Seems cheap. Any thoughts? I'm afraid if I get too big of a pump it'll be redundant with too small of pipes.
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I can't give you any better advice than what I've already given you man. I've even gave you some pumps to look at and do research on as well as offered to sell you the pump that I'm holding onto as backup. Your return pump is the heart of your system. It's what circulates the blood throughout the body. Don't cheap out on it (as well as circulation pumps). Again, my advice is get a DC pump. They are controllable. You can turn flow up and down at the push of a button.
 
ThePorkchopExpress said:
I can't give you any better advice than what I've already given you man. I've even gave you some pumps to look at and do research on as well as offered to sell you the pump that I'm holding onto as backup. Your return pump is the heart of your system. It's what circulates the blood throughout the body. Don't cheap out on it (as well as circulation pumps). Again, my advice is get a DC pump. They are controllable. You can turn flow up and down at the push of a button.
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actually don't cheap out on anything, lol...lights, pumps, test kits, etc. it's not a cheap hobby and you get what you pay for...you will just end up spending more money in the long run buying better equipment to replace the mediocre stuff you bought because you didn't want to spend the money at the time...do you know how many glass scrapers i have?? i could open up a museum. But now i'm perfectly happy with my Tunze care magnet strong...finally, a glass scraper that doesn't double as a glass scratcher
 
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ThePorkchopExpress said:
actually don't cheap out on anything, lol...lights, pumps, test kits, etc. it's not a cheap hobby and you get what you pay for...you will just end up spending more money in the long run buying better equipment to replace the mediocre stuff you bought because you didn't want to spend the money at the time...do you know how many glass scrapers i have?? i could open up a museum. But now i'm perfectly happy with my Tunze care magnet strong...finally, a glass scraper that doesn't double as a glass scratcher
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Thanks for all the great advise! PM'd
 
The tank looks great. I didn't put two and two together and realize this was the tank I got the frags from. You contacted me about the WD and I jumped at the chance to get one, thanks again.
 
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