Camera recommendations?

ultimatemj said:
Nice magnification and color/white balance! But notice the ultra-narrow depth of field?
Click to expand...

That what the extension always did..I am not a fan of extension much. I like regular macro lens. Canon 100mm and Sigma 105 are the one I love for closeup pictures.
 
Curious, what was f-stop setting for the jawbreaker pic?

Generally speaking, adjust iso to allow for max f-stop (32 or 64 if you have it). Non-intuitive part of this is 'bigger glass' with f2.8 actually helps with the iso allowing f32 or smaller.


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Hard to read, but it looks like it says aperture(f-stop) is f8....so mid range. f16 is double the depth, f32 is quadruple the depth of that pic.

The size/dia of the lense has a big impact on the shutter speed...in that it is how the lense 'collects' light. And once the shutter speed gets below to 1/lens length you need to mount (tripod) the camera...and be aware of subject movement below 1/250s

As it stands, it would be interesting to see the same pic taken with the smallest aperture on the 50mm (f22 or f32) depending on which 50mm you have.


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ultimatemj said:
Hard to read, but it looks like it says aperture(f-stop) is f8....so mid range. f16 is double the depth, f32 is quadruple the depth of that pic.

The size/dia of the lense has a big impact on the shutter speed...in that it is how the lense 'collects' light. And once the shutter speed gets below to 1/lens length you need to mount (tripod) the camera...and be aware of subject movement below 1/250s

As it stands, it would be interesting to see the same pic taken with the smallest aperture on the 50mm (f22 or f32) depending on which 50mm you have.


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Click to expand...

Always with tripod when I shoot the picture of corals except top down...Picture of the nem f5.6 DF is good and I like DF at F8 or faster (personal taste). For the lens of the Canon M 22mm..I dont think it work well with the extension tube for the long distance which I want to tell the reefer ask about the 22mm lens.
 
Non intuitive, but shorter focal lengths (wide angle) actually have much shorter minimum focal lengths and better depth of field. The challenge is then related to magnification...trade off:)

Check out the topic of 'hyper focal' which is where the settings result in the maximum dof.

For a 22mm @f32 it can be 1.7ft from the subject and everything from 0.85ft to infinity is in focus.

For a 50mm @f32 it has to be 8.5ft from the subject to get everything from 4.25ft to infinity in focus.

For a 100mm @f32 it has to be 34.2ft from the subject to get everything from 17.1ft to infinity in focus.

Extension tubes change the math...


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Did you ever try 50mm or 22mm with extension tube? The problem is focus when shoot on top and corals at bottom at 24" no way you can use f32 or 64 to focus that coral..hehehe
 
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Extension tubes are not needed on short focal lengths, as they already have very shallow minimum focal distances....unless you want to get an inch or two away.

They really only work well with 'big glass' 200f2.8 or bigger, because it (pro) allows you to get within a few feet to focus and (con) cuts the effective depth (by further compressing).

It's a cheap way to boost magnification, but it makes everything else harder.

a "tweener" is teleconverters...like 1.4x and 2x...in that they also reduce min focus distance, reduce dof, and reduce light, but they magnify even more!
 
Mjl714 said:
I think this will add to this thread,

So I've got a Canon EOS M, with 22mm lense, nice camera, but as you can imagine with this lense, close ups, no good. What do you guys do, could you take decent pics with this model? New lense?
Click to expand...

ultimatemj said:
Extension tubes are not needed on short focal lengths, as they already have very shallow minimum focal distances....unless you want to get an inch or two away.

They really only work well with 'big glass' 200f2.8 or bigger, because it (pro) allows you to get within a few feet to focus and (con) cuts the effective depth (by further compressing).

It's a cheap way to boost magnification, but it makes everything else harder.

a "tweener" is teleconverters...like 1.4x and 2x...in that they also reduce min focus distance, reduce dof, and reduce light, but they magnify even more!
Click to expand...

That what I try to answer the question from reefer here...20mm len can't with extension tube. My 50mm + extension tube only focus at 8 inches or less and really hard to focus. With my 100mm then lot better.
 
I have a point and shoot Panasonic DMC FZ47 with a fixed lens. I am very happy with the color accuracy for most action shots. Not sure what diopter, warming, polarizing filters do, yet.

Would a macro filter set like this help for shooting under Actinic?

http://www.amazon.com/PLR-Close-Up-...2&sr=1-19&keywords=panasonic+dmc+fz47+filters

Decreases the minimum focusing distance of virtually any lens to "Macro Lens"
Includes +1, +2, +4, +10 diopter filters & ballistic nylon filter wallet
"Dual Thread" design makes it easy to combine close up filters to create Extreme Macro effect and/or add other optics eg; Polarizing, UV, Warming filters
Premium grade optical glass ensures no loss of detail
 
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