Cyanobacteria and Chaeto connection?

reefOgraphic

reefOgraphic

New member
I thinned out the chaeto in my fuge and got a cyanobacteria spike about 2 days later. I only removed about a 1/3 of the chaeto, maybe a little more. I've seen some very small patches in the past but they've gone away quickly on their own. I know the chaeto absorbs some phosphates but I thought the DSB did most of this?
 
4-6" DSB won't help with cyano outbreaks from my understanding.. But I can be wrong :rolleyes: Never researched for this area

Also from what I hear most won't be affective after a 1yr being established..

You might want to add extra flow in the sump like a powerhead..
 
I ended up putting my chaeto under my return. I had fluffy stuffs growing on my chaeto I'm assuming its cyno. Gonna see if it helps
 
I have a 58 Gallon up top with a 29 gallon sump - 30/25/45. Skim (bubble magus) & UV (twist) - chamber 1, return (Sicce Suprema) - chamber 2, DSB-chaeto w/50 wtt Daylight CF - chamber 3.

1 - Yellow Tang
1 - Melanarus
1 - Flame Hawk
1 - Ocellaris
1 - Bartlett Anthias
3 - Chromis
1 - (missing) Diamond Goby

Everything tests out. I use RO/DI water and Kent marine salt. Water changes every 1-2 weeks.
 
I cut back the feeding and killed the main lighting. Had just done a water change. I'd rather not use an additive/cleaner. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
I used red slime remover several times during a severe cyano outbreak. I always keep some stocked. Not a single coral or fish loss after 4 applications.
 
It's covering the bottom of the DT making its way up the LR. Pretty heavy. My RO/DI unit is 7 months old. I think I may need new cartridges,? Maybe phosphates are not testing because chaeto is utilizing them? This would explain the sudden outbreak when I thinned the chaeto. Does this sound right or is it AUFRGE?
 
Regardless, cyano will eventually take over and can easily suffocate your corals. Don't wait too long to do something. I like the Red Slime Remover because its not a medication/antibiotic. It acts the same way as OxyClean does for stains on clothes. I just made sure to run a few airstones before, during, and for a week after treatment. Chaeto will eat up some po4 but typically not that much.
You said your RO/DI was 7 months old...are you testing the TDS?
 
Not testing TDS. On the list. The problem is degradation of the filters, right. They don't just go bad all of a sudden. Slow increase of phosphates leached. I like to do 25-35% WC's every week. Seems to keep things running better.
 
How is flow inside the DT? Need to avoid dead spots..

Also high TDS can cause problems.. Change your filters just to be safe. If you are doing that many WC, sounds like it might need a replacement.
 
reefOgraphic said:
Not testing TDS. On the list. The problem is degradation of the filters, right. They don't just go bad all of a sudden. Slow increase of phosphates leached. I like to do 25-35% WC's every week. Seems to keep things running better.
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From the little I know... RODI Filters take awhile to loose effectiveness and depends mostly on water pressure, membrane sizes, initial TDS, and to some extent water temperature. I can not comment about the make up of water in the Wilmette area but Chicago water is really clean. I do know that RO filters last surprisingly long. I have made about 1750 gallons of water, over the course of two years, still with 0 TDS readings. I would think the more likely culprit of your outbreak would be water flow and how you are managing nutrient export.
 
Not always true Tangency. How long the filters last, especially the DI resin, depends on the tap TDS. I have a high TDS at my house, usually around 300. I get 3 months on average out of my DI resin. That's with weekly water changes and water for the ATO. My average pre DI TDS is 9-14.
 
BigBarnacles said:
Not always true Tangency. How long the filters last, especially the DI resin, depends on the tap TDS. I have a high TDS at my house, usually around 300. I get 3 months on average out of my DI resin. That's with weekly water changes and water for the ATO. My average pre DI TDS is 9-14.
Click to expand...

I thought I eluded to that in my reply? :)
"depends mostly on water pressure, membrane sizes, initial TDS, and to some extent water temperature."

" I can not comment about the make up of water in the Wilmette area but Chicago water is really clean."
 
Tangency said:
I thought I eluded to that in my reply? :)
"depends mostly on water pressure, membrane sizes, initial TDS, and to some extent water temperature."

" I can not comment about the make up of water in the Wilmette area but Chicago water is really clean."
Click to expand...
Ah, yes. Misread. Good day sir :).
 
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