Jrpark22000 - 110 rimless tank

EricTheRed said:
I really like your tank progression shots. What, if anything, do you dose?
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Thanks Eric, It's always a nice surprise to see how the colonies grow and overall tank progress on a yearly basis.

For dosing; vinegar to control nutrients, b-ionic 2 part and mag, and lots of fish poop. I let the weekly WC and b-ionic handle all the trace elements. Every third day I soak the fish food in amino acids so some make it to the coral but likely not much.
 
Well I went to RC to update my build thread there as it cover this tank from the beginning, after trying to link the photos hosted here they blocked the chicagoreefs site link. So, I'm moving the info to here, albeit out of chronological order.
 
Original posted 10/03/2011, 10:50 AM

Well, the new tank is now running so I have enough to start a good build thread.

I picked up a good used Miracle rimless tank second hand which started a many month build. The tank is in the basement family room, so I need a quiet self contained system. I don’t have access to punch the plumbing threw the wall so everything needs to be inside the cabinet. It needed to be on wheels, and try everything possible to avoid needing a chiller. Most importantly, it must be reliable. I travel for work and cannot be worrying about the tank or if my wife can take care of something while I am away.


Using the build thread from the previous tank owner as a starting point along with my needs I started with the stand back in April.


Knowing there can be zero deflection in the stand I needed to over engineer as it’ll be in wheels. So a 2x4 structure with 2 layers of ¾” oak plywood skin. The 2x4 uprights are set at a 45 to provide the most mechanical attachment as possible. The first layer of plywood fits in between the uprights and the second layer skins the entire outside. All joints are glued and screwed/stapled. It weights a ton but I know it’ll handle the load.

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Originally posted 10/03/2011, 10:51 AM

There are 10 quality castors, each with a 290lb rating, part 19505T11 from McMaster-Carr. There are 5 castors on each side in a similar pattern to how the number 5 is shown on single die/dice. This again will distribute load to the uprights evenly and avoid any stand deflection. (Yes with the tank filled and all live stock in I can roll it on carpet by myself, all be it slowly.)



And finally the tank sitting on the stand.


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Originally posted 10/03/2011, 10:53 AM

I next went about the only problem I saw with the tank, a single overflow hole. I wanted a silent drain with failsafe so I wanted a 3 hole “BeanAnimal” drain. I had to build an external overflow box to accommodate the 3 standpipes. Then a custom internal skimmer box with an adjustable weir so I can properly set the water level in the tank. I had to plumb the return lines thru the overflow box due to its size but the end product turned out great.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2017234 – skimmer box thread




I next went to Marcorocks and purchased the rock to start my aquascape.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18854793&postcount=210
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18854807&postcount=211

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Originally posted 10/03/2011, 10:56 AM

I decided on my skimmer. It’s an old discontinued product but I found new one, Reeflo Orca 200. It is oversized for my system as it can handle 400 gal systems but it works great. I’ll never run out of skimmer on this system. It is the biggest, highest recommended recirc skimmer I could find. I added a Avast swabbie and overflow container to minimize on maintenance.

I set the system up and ran it for about a week to give the skimmer a kick start, clearing out all of the oils. Then came the big weekend, the move from my nano into the new system. Overall it took 6 full days and 6-7 week nights to get it all completed. The livestock/rock only took a day but all the electronics, float switches, and fine details took the remainder.

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Originally posted 10/19/2011, 09:22 AM

The cloudiness from the bacteria bloom would not subside after 3 weeks, so the addition of a 25W UV sterilizer on the overflow siphon tube did the job overnight. Perfectly crystal clear water, the fish are floating in air.

I am also hooking up the O3 reactor which requires some replumbing. Once complete the next project is another cabinet to house the 03 reactor, the ATO jugs, normal supplies and also provide me with a working surface. It’ll be made to look like the stand and sit to the left front facing side. It’ll be until snow is on the ground before I can start the stand But I am looking forward to having it complete.

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Originally posted 12/05/2011, 08:02 AM

I do not regret the switch from the 250MH to the AI leds. My medium and medium-high light SPS did suffer though. I measured the PAR under the old light and under the new, placing the coral in areas with 25% less PAR. They still suffered some bleaching. I kept turning the AIs down until now they are only running at 40% capacity at peek. Finally they are starting to color up again. The Clams and high light SPS immediately started to put on new growth under the AIs.

I added the avast ozone reactor, red sea generator and BRS jumbo carbon reactor to increase ORP into the 350 range. The old tank floated around 280 and had yellow tint water every 3 weeks. The water is now invisible even at 4 week water changes. The thread where I discuss the ozone setup and it’s config;
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...=639805&page=6 starting at post #299

I also added a CO2 scrubber. I used a medium sized avast reactor and fill it with 3lbs of soda-lime. It lasts about 3-4 weeks, putting the cost to operate at about $2 a week. My pH was always low in the winter and use to float .4-.5 during a 24 hr period. It now is always between 8.2 and 8.4. I love how stable the pH has become. I can now use pH as an indicator of ALK to know when to adjust my dosing pumps.

I have started the design of the next addition, an equipment cabinet and QT stand. It will house my ATO reservoirs, ozone reactor, carbon reactor and air pump, as well as support the 45-60 cube QT tank. With a foot print of 2’x2’ and similar height to the main tank stand made to match. I’m still working out the best placement for the equipment and doors but it will be a good winter project. I will use a marinleand 45 or 60 cube, lighted with a AI. Unless something needs QT I think I will keep it plumbed into the main display and sump. When anything needs QT, I can just turn the valves and separate the tank. I think this is the best solution, always keeping a QT setup ready for any unforeseen problem or new addition. The AI will allow me to properly acclimate or QT coral w/o risking parasites in the display.
 
Originally posted: 04/30/2012, 07:57 AM


Equipment cabinet and QT stand are well underway. Still need to make the doors, apply one more coat of stain, then spar urethane to the wet surfaces. The 2 lower sliders are to hold the ATO containers, the top slider is a working table. The side opening is to get to the ozone setup housed behind the ATO containers: ozone reactor, gac reactor, air dryer, air pump, and ozone generator. The excess space will house testing supplies, nets, other misc goodies. The hole in the side is for the the flex pvc to exit the stand and connect to the sump as the back of the cabinet will be against the wall.

The cabinet structure is 3/4 oak veneer plywood with 1.5" square oak supports in each corner. The top and bottom use a 2x4 structure for rigidity and weight distribution similar to the main tank stand. The oak supports add more gluing surface to the corners as well as prevent flexing. Full extension 200lbs 12" drawer slides serve to bring the ATO containers out for easy access.

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