Reef ready worth it

S

Saltpete

Member
I have a old 90 that I had a hang on the back overflow and want to start over. Is it worth looking for a reef ready tank? I don’t want the HOB overflow anymore
 
Saltpete said:
I have a old 90 that I had a hang on the back overflow and want to start over. Is it worth looking for a reef ready tank? I don’t want the HOB overflow anymore
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You can always drill it, or ask around for an LFS to do it for you. But yes, it's usually worth it to have a sump and everything hidden
 
Look on the internet. They show a way to use a phone or iPad screen and Polarized sunglasses to tell if it’s tempered.


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I once bought a 75g tank off craigslist for dirt cheap, it was not reef ready. I then paid a glass shop to drill it (2 returns and 1 drain for Durso), paid for the internal plumbing and bulkheads, bought an overflow box off ebay, had to have my dad cut the overflow box to size, then we had to install the box with silicone. In the end, I probably paid close to the amount of a new reef ready tank. Sure it was cool that I built it myself, but it didn't look as nice or as professional.

After doing all of that, I bought a reef ready 60g cube, and then a Waterbox. I will never make my own reef ready tank again.
 
Sawdonkey said:
No, I will never buy a reef ready tank again because the overflows are ugly. Any tank I get in the future will be drilled for a low profile overflow box.
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I like this idea as well, but I do like to hide these relatively long heaters in the reef ready overflows.
 
Generally, I’ve seen a manufacturers name info somewhere on the outside bottom, and it’s usually pretty obvious so perhaps your tanks manufacturer info has been removed or fell off.
 
Mjl714 said:
I like this idea as well, but I do like to hide these relatively long heaters in the reef ready overflows.
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This is not a good idea due to if return pump fails water will leak down over very little time over flow will be empty and heater will run dry.
 
Saltpete said:
I don’t have 3D glasses, where would be the name be located on the tank
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There isn’t a fellow refer or a friend close to you that you could buy barrow polarized sunglasses of 3D glasses from? You would only need them for a minute to do the test.


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((FORDTECH)) said:
This is not a good idea due to if return pump fails water will leak down over very little time over flow will be empty and heater will run dry.
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Interesting, in my case, my 75 gallon reef ready overflow area has a “standpipe” taller than my heaters, so I don’t think the risk to which you refer exists, or else my tank would be leaking on the floor.
 
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Mjl714 said:
Interesting, in my case, my 75 gallon reef ready overflow area has a “standpipe” taller than my heaters, so I don think the risk to which you refer exists, or else my tank would be leaking on the floor.
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I agree, my water never goes beneath my standpipes when there is a power outage. (That’s where I keep heaters also. in over flows as well as in the sump. )


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Mjl714 said:
Interesting, in my case, my 75 gallon reef ready overflow area has a “standpipe” taller than my heaters, so I don’t think the risk to which you refer exists, or else my tank would be leaking on the floor.
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The over flow consist of a bulkhead thru bottom of tank. Then there is a stand pipe that you just press into this bulkhead. No one ever glues this. And over time water will leak past the pushed in overflow pipe. In my case the 120 has 2 over flow sections. And in each section has a drain bulkhead and return bulkhead. So this is 4 points that standpipe is pressed into that will seep leak down to sump. Anyways lucky for you if you have been able to push that standpipe far and tight enough into bulkhead to create a perfect seal with no glue.
 
((FORDTECH)) said:
The over flow consist of a bulkhead thru bottom of tank. Then there is a stand pipe that you just press into this bulkhead. No one ever glues this. And over time water will leak past the pushed in overflow pipe. In my case the 120 has 2 over flow sections. And in each section has a drain bulkhead and return bulkhead. So this is 4 points that standpipe is pressed into that will seep leak down to sump. Anyways lucky for you if you have been able to push that standpipe far and tight enough into bulkhead to create a perfect seal with no glue.
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Oh I understand, no worry here, mine is all glued (pvc cemented) together. I can’t imaging not gluing the entire mechanism together.
 
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