40 breeder. Am I done before even started?

Arthur

Arthur

Member
So Im downgrading after having 125 for last 6 years. It was really hard decision. So I want too set up my new 40 breeder and I read a lot about different kinds of overflow system. This forum included. I decided to do " Bean Animal overflow" That required to drill 3 holes on back wall. Never done that before. I goess I was to exited and nervous at the same time. I drilled 3 -1" holes. But I think I screwed up . Do you think I drilled them to close to each other? I drilled 1 3/4 holes. The distance between each edge of the hole is 1 1/2". Is that ok or it is too close? O man Im so ****ed now. What was I thinking???? Now Im afraid that I messed up structure and glass won't be strong enough. Let me know, please. Is it my project done already.. And I need to buy new tank? And sorry Zac. I got your pm and somehow still screwed up…. :( You said at least 2 "!!!!![ One hole is also little lover but it still should be fine…ATTACH=CONFIG]10278[/ATTACH]View attachment 10279
 
I think it's great! Maybe incorporate a C2C overflow. I don't think it will be a problem structure wise. I drilled my 40 much closer than what you have and it's perfectly fine. I would maybe drill a 4th hole for return though.
 
Really? You think its ok? Im really sad but that's a great news!!!!!!!!!! With the return I planned on going over a top. Was so scared to drill more holes. But thanks for bringing a good news!!!! :)
Darienreefs7 said:
I think it's great! Maybe incorporate a C2C overflow. I don't think it will be a problem structure wise. I drilled my 40 much closer than what you have and it's perfectly fine. I would maybe drill a 4th hole for return though.
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i also think it looks good , i have done bean animal on all my tanks i have drilled and i love it has saved me a few times already my 210 is hard to see since its painted black but the distance from the trim to the holes isnt that much just make sure you get the room for the 90° elbows you want in the overflow box before you make it
 
I agree, the holes are close to the top of the tank and being a rimmed 40 breeder there isn't an excessive amount of pressure on the glass that high. I also think you'll want one (or better two) more holes for returns. On a 40 you may want a return on the back near each end.
 
Arthur, the holes look good... as stated, you're close enough to the top where pressure shouldn't be an issue.. Main concern is just making sure that the holes have enough room between them that the bulkheads fit properly. THe more room you leave between the holes, obviously the more structural integrity you'll keep. But those look good!

As for the returns, if you want to drill those, keep in mind the level and placement of these holes.. If you drill them lower than return, your sump must be able to hand the amount of water that would drain through them incase of a power outage. (yes you can buy checkvalves, but those too might fail.) So always make sure your sump can handle the amount of water that gets dumped into it from a power outage..

Also, remember that you don't want to drill these holes too close to your corners. I would definitely leave 2 inches or more from the edges of your tank. Drilling too close to an edge could put too much pressure on the seam or the hole and cause a leak or worse, a panel to crack. so just be cautious on that..

If this seems too much and you want to do an Over-the-top return, i used a U-shape Return Jet from BRS and plumbed it accordingly to my return pump. One should be enough for your 40G. The advantage of this, if you're unsure of placement, you can move it around to find the right location.. You will want this pointing away from your overflow. If possible, you'll want it on an end. This will help maximize your turnover rate.. (no sense in continuing to pump water from your sump into your overflow.)

Good luck!
 
View attachment 10302Sorry to disappoint you guys but NOOOO!!!!! No more holes for me!!!! ;) I will go over the top. 3/4" return line split to each corner. Is that sounds ok? I got my 20 gal. sump today. I will put of total 4 baffles. I'm putting all this for you guys so you can help me. I'm looking for any suggestions or approvals . Latter I will post my plumbing parts. Also I still didn't decided about overflow, acrylic or glass… I went to glass store they will make baffles for me. I didn't ask about overflow yet…
 
View attachment 10303And this is my plumbing. I'm looking for any suggestions, please. I have time so I can change all that. That tee should be clean out tee but I can't find in the store. But probably I can find one online if it is a must. Also do I really need unions? Should I change that ball sit off to regular with knob? This ball valves are hard to adjust. Let me know , please. This one is Syphon. The Emergency will have elbow turn up. Open channel will have small hose attached on top of tee… Shut off will be only on Syphon.
 
Sorry, last thing. For now ;) Are those bulkheads are alright or should I buy better quality. I thought maybe I should buy stronger ones since holes are close to each other. Is that matter? Got those from friend. Thank you.
 
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i hate ball valves i used on my first bean animal and was horrible to dial in . gate valve makes it simple . i didnt use unions, wish i had after gate valves tho . . also gate valve is on full siphon and open drain . my emergency does not have one. heres what mine looks like
 
Wow. That looks great!!! Where did you get those colors? Did you buy those online/ I need those velves also. Thanks for sharing.
lunacris said:
i hate ball valves i used on my first bean animal and was horrible to dial in . gate valve makes it simple . i didn't use unions, wish i had after gate valves tho . . also gate valve is on full siphon and open drain . my emergency does not have one. heres what mine looks like
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Do you got those pipes going into bulkhead not over?
lunacris said:
i hate ball valves i used on my first bean animal and was horrible to dial in . gate valve makes it simple . i didn't use unions, wish i had after gate valves tho . . also gate valve is on full siphon and open drain . my emergency does not have one. heres what mine looks like
Click to expand...
 
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yep i used slip bulkheads , the pvc is painted with krylon fusion someone posted a link a while ago with colored pvc and i figured why not try to paint them and it came out well .
 
Do you guys have any idea where around Naperville o can buy pieces of glass for buflles and overflow? I went to Bolingbrook Glass but they want over 100$. I can't remember but few years back i bought some in Glenn Ellyn area somewhere maybe near AquaPros...
 
Arthur, In my experience, I used the same T fitting that you have in your picture and it worked flawlessly. As for the unions... YES, Use the unions as they will save you a headache if anything ever clogs your drain pipes. Easily unscrew, clean and then reattach. They are a bit expensive, but not as expensive as to figuring out how to cut the pipe and reattach if something does clog your pipe..

The ball valves are VERY Difficult to turn, especially once they are wet. It seems the longer they're wet, the more difficult they are to turn. Sometimes, in my previous 100G, I had to use both hands to get it to budge. My experience now, lead me to the PVC Gate valve. You can find them online for various prices, but for reference, i am using BRS Gate Valves.

hope this helps!
 
Is any PVC glue from Home Depot good. And should I glue all connections even elbows going into bulkheads in overflow box?
 
Arthur said:
Is any PVC glue from Home Depot good. And should I glue all connections even elbows going into bulkheads in overflow box?
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Yes. I usually get the dual pack of primer and glue. I wish I would have gotten clear primer instead of the ugly purple. And yes glue and prime everthing.
 
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