120gal Stand Build

DB9181

DB9181

New member
Last night I was able to pick up a 120gal tank from a buddy of mine J However, the stand has shelves on both sides and a small cabinet in the middle that will only hold a 29gal. I plan on doing a 55gal sump, therefore I need to build my own stand.
The Tank is 60x18x26, which works out nicely since a 55gal is only 48’’. I plan on using an in-STAND skimmer (not in-sump) so I will need some extra room in the stand. I was thinking of making the stand: 62x22x32. I might need to go slightly taller, as the skimmer is 28.5’’. This would give me a 1-2in ‘boarder’ around the base of the tank, allow extra room for the skimmer next to the sump, and hopefully allow me to SLIDE the 55gal tank in/out of the stand through a side panel. Thus if I ever need to change it, I don’t need to empty the DT to access/remove the 55gal from the top of the stand.
I found a design for a similar stand, but I feel it uses a lot of extra 4x4s that I can cut down on. This system is already going to weigh A LOT, so I’m trying to reduce weight wherever I can.
Here or the plans:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=198203&d=1343661822

Here is my sketch:
View attachment 10778

My thoughts are:
-2x4 base/frame
-4x4 vertical supports/legs (with on in the middle front & back)
-2x4 top frame with 2x4 horizontal supports on top of the 4x4s.
-Then skinning it in…. something and painting it glossy black. Maybe adding in some nice accent trim, etc.
-Doors: Thinking two front removable panels held on w/ magnetic brackets and one side panel that is removable to access skimmer and remove sump if necessary. This way swinging doors wont be in the way.

Thoughts? Changes? Reductions?
Also, if anyone is bored and wants to do a build rendering (showing supports) and/or 3D rendering, I wont stop ya ;)
 
4x4 is way over kill.

2x4 in each corner. 1 in the middle front and back. Plywood top with a 1/2" over hang on the finish side. 1/2" plywood in the finish side will make the structure very stiff and since u have a 1/2" over hang it'll sit flush to the top plywood. Use screws not nails.

Cut openings for doors and get premade doors from Menards. It's actually really easy lol
 
I'd skip the 55 and use a 40 breeder for the sump. 55's are so tall and will be difficult to clean, plus the narrow 12" width makes it hard to fit enough inside.

My stand is 42" tall, and is AWESOME. I wouldn't ever do a short stand again. You need a stool to get to the bottom, but the look is EPIC.

Check out my 110 gallon (60x18x24) build for a GREAT open system with 2x4, 2x6, and no plywood. It's not finished yet, but a great design and a great start. Keep in mind anything 5' (60") won't need center bracing unless its an acrylic tank. Markitekt designed it for me.
 
Yeah agree with yogo. I built my stand tall also. Hate having to lean over to look into my tank.,i actually wish it was higher still lol
 
I've used 4x4s for my vertical supports. It's easy peace of mind... I'd use 2x6 for the top rim and ditch the middle supports like was already said. Or 2x6 for the top front board, no middle support and 2x4 for the rest with a middle support in the back.
 
capysolo said:
I've used 4x4s for my vertical supports. It's easy peace of mind... I'd use 2x6 for the top rim and ditch the middle supports like was already said. Or 2x6 for the top front board, no middle support and 2x4 for the rest with a middle support in the back.
Click to expand...

By the way, i notched my 4x4s so they would sit on the bottom frame, and the top frame would sit on top of the 4x's... That way the wood carries the weight and the screws just hold it together... Very strong both vertically (tank weight) and laterally (dog running into it etc).
 
142250fed5d14779e.jpg


Then it was wrapped in 1/2 ply.

Over kill but w/e
 
When I said open I meant open inside, not a visible sump, just to clarify.

If you were to get a durso drainpipe as well as a check valve, no matter which sump you use you'll be able to maximize its added volume.

Anyway, good luck with whatever you do, just add my pennies. :)
 
Definitely Ben, you post wasn't meant to shoot any other ideas down - The pics were just showing it "open". I posted the build here primarily to get more options as to the best options. Obviously my first 'sketch' was WAAAY overkill.
 
Also, if it is a glass tank, you don't need to cover the top of the stand. Glass tanks sit all their weight on the lips, so you don't have to put a sheet of plywood over the top. Acrylic, you do, but not for glass.
 
Yeah I was thinking the same thing.... (sheet of plywood)

As far as a durso drainpipe - I can't drill the bottom glass, its tempered. Plus, I was already going to go w/ a 1500gph Overflow Kit from Glass-holes.com - I'm going to place it as high as possible and then test exactly how much would drain in a power outage. Then I can probably fit more additional water volume in the 55gal and still CMA.
 
Gotcha. Glass-holes is a GREAT site.

Still though, a check valve would keep the return from siphoning back at all. Awesome way to maximize sump size.
 
The plywood on top was build 1/2" overhang on 3 sides so that when u finish it with 1/2" plywood all sides sit flush to each other.
 
Ahh, check valve(s) on the return lines - I thought you were talking on the drain-line, which didnt make sense since its gravity-fed.

I'll definitely look into that - 100% fail-safe? Then I just have to make enough additional volume room in the sump for the amount of water that would drain from the overflow.
 
Other concern w/ making the stand, say 48" tall... Tank is 26" tall, so that puts the top at 72" (just over 6ft), so now I need a decent step later to do ANYTHING lol.

More importantly, Im running a 36" GAMMA unit - since its a 60" tank, I need to raise the unit to get the right coverage. Gus said 12-14" should do it. Therefore, the Light would hang at over 7ft high... And id be looking into the LEDs/T5 when standing anywhere close to the tank, unless I angle the unit slightly. I was not planning on a canopy, just straight hanging the Unit from the ceiling....

Hmm....decisions, decisions....
 
DB9181 said:
Ahh, check valve(s) on the return lines - I thought you were talking on the drain-line, which didnt make sense since its gravity-fed.

I'll definitely look into that - 100% fail-safe? Then I just have to make enough additional volume room in the sump for the amount of water that would drain from the overflow.
Click to expand...


They need cleaning like anything else, but yes, when maintained (the wyre check valve is twist and pull for cleaning) they will keep the water in the pipe. Put a ball valve above it for cleaning and you're golden.
 
Hmm, that would be a great option.

Anywhere cheaper than BRS? I need a 3/4" check valve/wyre. I'm assuming a wyre would be a better choice due to cleaning?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top