120gal Stand Build

Where are your return and drain bulk heads going. Properly plumbed would prevent a ton of back flow. My sump barely goes up when my pump is off.

Loc lines are 1" below water level and drain is in over flow obviously at water level. So barely any water goes back into my sump. As a matter of fact i have a 30g sump and i can turn my pumps off and pump in 8g into my sump during water change and it still doesn't over flow my sump
 
I will have 2 3/4" returns with Loc-Lines, so yes good point Joe, those will drain over little. I just have to wait and see how high in the water the teeth on the overflow box are. I can probably get away without a check-value, and have less that 2inches from the DT draining ~ 8-9gals. Once this is determined, I can 'fill 'er up" (sump) as much as possible :)
 
yup yup - Once i get the overflow kit /drilled Ill know exactly where it sits - Then calculate how much volume would drain, leave some extra 'wiggle room' and place the baffles. In the event of power-loss/drainage, I reall dont care of water goes over the TOP of the baffles ... just as long as it stays IN the tank :)
 
Hey Dan, if you need a hand with building the stand or need some tools just let me know, I have all the saw's or drills you might need.
 
BRS sells a check valve that works somewhat like a union. This way you can take it apart clean it and make sure it is in working order. Also easy to replace. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/catalog/product/view/id/1746/

I just put one on my 65gal.




DB9181 said:
Ahh, check valve(s) on the return lines - I thought you were talking on the drain-line, which didnt make sense since its gravity-fed.

I'll definitely look into that - 100% fail-safe? Then I just have to make enough additional volume room in the sump for the amount of water that would drain from the overflow.
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BRS is the cheapest I've found hands down.

Don't get the swing check, get the wyre. Way easier to clean and much more reliable.
 
NEW!!! Reduced lumber sketch!!

316898_10100523391162015_1999689123_n.jpg


Looks like I'll need:
5 x 10' 2x4s
1 x 8' 2x4

BASED ON: 36'' tall stand.

I'll get HD to cut 2 10's in 1/2 giving my 4 x 60"s
Maybe get them to cut more if the dude is cool with it, just to save me the hassle since it takes them 2secs.

Then all thats left is the 1/2" plywood. Probably will cover the inside/bottom frame since the sump/equip will be on it. Still deciding on covering the top frame, i see Joe's point on making it all flush.
 
Dude a 8' 2x4 is $2. 2x4's are ur smallest expense lol. Try to find a deal on plywood is the problem.
 
sheet of finished plywood is like 25-40 bucks. U will need 2 sheets min. Like i said in text. Doors and plywood are the expensive part. 2x4's are dirt cheap.

Dont forget to account for 1/8" of lost wood for each cut.
 
Yeah, i know -just didnt figure out the amount of plywood just yet. Wanted to post up the sketch while i do that.
What about 1/4" plywood for inside/under the sump - I can toss another brace in there too, i just dont see a reason for the added cost of 1/2'' ply in there, especially IF i do it on top....

Would 1/4" plywood do the trick all around?
 
alright, so the stand length might be 59 7/8" - Rather just have HD cut the 10' in half rather than do the 1/8" extra and have more scrap
 
i'm sure 1/4" plywood would be fine. I dunno if i remember seeing such thin plywood though lol. Any type of wood will strenghthen it.

Thikn about when u buy those cheap ikea cabinets how wobbly they are until u put that stupid cardboard backer on it w/ the tiny nails and then it's solid.

Same idea here.
 
DB9181 said:
Ahh, check valve(s) on the return lines - I thought you were talking on the drain-line, which didnt make sense since its gravity-fed.

I'll definitely look into that - 100% fail-safe? Then I just have to make enough additional volume room in the sump for the amount of water that would drain from the overflow.
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They are never 100% fail safe. Just wait until a snail lodges it self in it. It will also reduce your flow and add head pressure. I would make sure you have enough space in your sump for the additional water volume. That is the only thing that is fail safe unless your math is off.
 
goat585 said:
They are never 100% fail safe. Just wait until a snail lodges it self in it. It will also reduce your flow and add head pressure. I would make sure you have enough space in your sump for the additional water volume. That is the only thing that is fail safe unless your math is off.
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Exactly my thoughts Tom :) I just plan on making the extra room in the sump and maybe loosing alil bit of overall volume
 
Eh, I feel better w/ two small twigs there lol (and a matter of $1-2). Plus it gives me another place to secure the plywood
 
hey dan you saw my stand its unfinished but its build the same way as ben build it just he have 2x6 on top frame instead 2x4 , do your top frame from 2x6 bottom one 2x4 and
2-2x4 on each corner like this that way one 2x4 or 2x6 is between top and bottom frame not just like your skatcj shows top and bottom frame will be atached with screws
 
If you're not using the plywood for strength (which since you're using 2x4 and 2x6 you're not) then you could get some cheapo wood paneling for a LOT less than plywood. Paintable too.
 
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