120gal Stand Build

Ben, now you're talking my language :)

Alright if i do the 2x4 frame that I sketched, Im assuming it would be much stronger if the top frame (that the tank sits on) rests ON the vertical 2x4 supports?

I can also run a full 2x4 diagonally across the back for additional stability.
In that case, I should be fine just using some type of cheap paneling correct? If thats the case, Isnt there the issue of attaching door to just paneling? will they rip or hold?

Water-seal the inside of the stand? or just several coats of glossy black all-around?
 
lysy85reef said:
hey dan you saw my stand its unfinished but its build the same way as ben build it just he have 2x6 on top frame instead 2x4 , do your top frame from 2x6 bottom one 2x4 and
2-2x4 on each corner like this that way one 2x4 or 2x6 is between top and bottom frame not just like your skatcj shows top and bottom frame will be atached with screws
Click to expand...

+1 . I think this the best way to go Dan , 2" by 6" top frame. I wouldn't recommend the 1/4" plywood to flimsy and I'm sure a little of saltwater soaking into it would ruin its integrity, and we all know that spilling water is inevitable. Also remember Dan that 2" by 4" or any other lumber at HD do not come in exact measurements 1- 2" by 4" might me 10'-1/2" while the next one might be 10'-1/8" long . In my opinion your better of buying the lumber and cutting it yourself to exact measurements anyway most of the time people at HD can't even read a tape measure.
 
I siliconed my plywood where they met at the top lip. I also did heavy paint on the top piece of ply woods to help prevent water seeping.
 
lysy85reef said:
hey dan you saw my stand its unfinished but its build the same way as ben build it just he have 2x6 on top frame instead 2x4 , do your top frame from 2x6 bottom one 2x4 and
2-2x4 on each corner like this that way one 2x4 or 2x6 is between top and bottom frame not just like your skatcj shows top and bottom frame will be atached with screws
Click to expand...

Marcin, so top frame out of 2x6 screwed into the sides of the vertical supports? (vs sitting on top of them)
For the bottom, 2 2x4s on each corner basically two legs?

So, thoughts are 1/4" ply is too thin/may take in too much moisture?
 
I would suggest white paint for the inside of the stand. It's amazing the difference white vs black makes... You can see much better in your stand for working on your sump or what have you. I've done it both ways, and won't ever paint the inside black again.
 
dan one ye 2x6 top frame, bottom one 2x4, corners one, 2x4 goes between frames so 2x6 top frame sits on 2x4 and the other is notched so 2- 2x4 on each corner
 
Thx for the waterproof spray paint idea -On amazon I only saw it in stain colors. I'm assuming I can find it at HD, etc - Is it paintable?

Alright... I think I'm going to go w/ the 2x4 frame....with 2x6 top frame and lose the front center brace (maybe back one too). Primarily not doing the front middle brace so that I have the option of 3 doors (or 2 larger ones). With a 2x4 smack in the middle it would be a pain/awkward having the middle door off-set.

Back to notching the corner 2x4s... Is that just to give added space to screw it in? Just cut the notch out w/ saw a circ-saw (carefully) ?

Later this evening Mark (Markitek) is hopefully coming by to verify my floors can hold the 2000+lb load as this tank is going in my family room and NOT in the basement. It's against a foundation wall, and perpendicular to 2x10 joists (should rest on 4-7 of them) but I rather not have 170gals of SW flowing through my house.

I will also be picking up the lumber for the stand, as well as the 55gal for the sump. Building begins tomorrow night :)
 
Markitekt actually designed my stand. Awesome guy. I didn't have to notch anything out, but everyone builds differently. He even had me use some 2x12's to give me some extra space front to back so I'd have more below tank and behind the tank room for plumbing.
 
Yeah, Mark is a great guy - Actually had him come out and demo part of a wall (same wall the tank is going against) last spring when I bought my house. I know he's extremely busy rehabbing his new place, but I hope he can make it out to take a look. I just want peace of mind, that I wont jack up my floors or worse, the tank breaks.

Over a 5' span, 2x6 with 2x4 bracing horizontally should be good right? I can re-arrange where the middle support is placed if need be.
 
I would think so. As long as your floor joists are standard and the tank is perpendicular, 120 gallon tan shouldn't have any issues, but piece of mind is worth more than opinion :)
 
Just got off the phone with Mark, since its a 5ft tank i should be able to hit 4 joists and be totally fine :)

Looking at making the stand alittle taller to 36'', which will put the top of the tank just over 5ft. I think that will look decent since the stand will be 62". Actually, tank/stand should end up being 62x22x62.

I also 'mapped' it out, i should be good with 2 sheets of plywood covering 3 sides of the stand, top frame (where DT sits) and bottom frame (sump/inside the stand).

Let the building begin!
 
Alright, pieced up all the lumber lastnight, will start the building this afternoon after work.

Regarding sealing/waterproof spraypaint - I also found this stuff

View attachment 10882

You Can spray on bare wood or painted "Fast-drying formula seals, protects and revitalizes." Think this will do the trick/add some extra protection to the moisture inside the stand? (Also, the entire back of the stand will be open so, there will be ventilation.
 
Id still go for laquor. All clear coat technically seals lol. That's what protects your car paint and pretty much anything you paint.
 
Can I paint over the laquor - Wanted to paint the inside of the stand white instead of leaving it unfinished.
 
Well isnt that dandy :) I'll probably go w/ a paint laquor vs the spraypaint that was recommended (although its easier), its so $^@ cold out, I dont know how to would bond/dry even if I did it in the garage.
 
Completed most of the stand build lastnight - All I still need to do is cut/insert the plywood on the interior/bottom frame for the Sump. It only took me 5-6 hours and I think it came out fairly nice considering I did EVERYTHING solo and only w/ a cordless circular saw. There is still enough room between the legs to slide a 55gal sump in, this way if I ever need to remove it I can do it through a side panel and not have to take down the DT. It should still be waay over kill but thats alright. :)

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All the cut lumber

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Top & Bottom Frames

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Frame Completed

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Wrapped in 1/2'' plywood

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Back side looking in (still need to put in the bottom plywood)

This thing weighs a $#^@ load. So I will paint/prep everything in the basement then carry the frame & plywood panels upstairs separately for final assembly. I still need to find doors I like for the front as well as side and cut them out. I really like the grain/texture of the finished plywood so I was thinking of possibly doing a Dark stain. The stand is going in a room that already had wood paneling and wood laminate floors, so I dont want to do be TOO much wood. The stain would be water-based that way if I end up not liking it, I can just paint it black. I also plan on sanding w/ 220 to get it really smooth. Wood trim will be placed around the perimeter for a finished look which will hide all plywood seams and screws.

I also plan on coating the inside w/ laquor to seal it.
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Thoughts?
 
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