Calling All SPS Experts

Ok I'll give the reactors a try. I'm wondering if the issues started when I added filter socks to my drains. I've always used a reactor for carbon and gfo. So the reactor was running full steam even when my tank was doing well. But now that I think about it I did add a filter sock to the drain about 2-3 months ago (previously I had never used fikter socks). Could this have been the tipping point?

I don't have much cyano but I will be sure to siphon out all that I can today and tomorrow.
 
try Chemiclean may be ?

Tank2379 said:
If Cayno Bacteria is present this can be a problem in a small system like this. It's bacteria that needs to be removed manually once it's in the water column it can cause all types of problems. There is little info on Cyano Bacteria if it kills coral without smothering the coral but it's Bacteria just like an infection if it's present it can harm your corals and some Cyano Bacteria can be dangerous to corals health. 1st don't blow it off cause it's Bacteria it needs to be removed manually just like Bubble Algea once popped the spores will go everywhere and create more Bubble algea. Same with Cyano if you blow it off where is the algae and bacteria suppose to go? It will just spread to other parts of the tank and sump. IMO I will try to work on removing the Cyano Bacteria. More and more I read someone with an STN problem Cyano Bacteria has been present in the tank. Not just here but many other forums also
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While we are on the subject of cyano, can someone post a picture of it? I can't figure out if I have cynano or just brown hair algae.
 
I think before I go for a chemical treatment I'll try adjusting flow and siphoning. The cyano is accumulating in a somewhat dead zone. My tank is a 25 gallon cube with an MP10WES running on 80% but there is a small chunk of sand that is protected from a volleyball sized green polyped toadstool and small rock overhang. I'm going to siphon and see if I can manipulate flow to agitate that area some more.
 
K i didnt have back up heater was just making sure mine was dropping while i was asleep and warmed up by lights when i got home so took while to figure my issue out. Red slimemight be ftom doseing ap i get it to when i dose it as for alk i keep mine at 9 but in no way am i low nutrient i over stock and over feed so these guys might know better about ulns . Faded colors do point in that direction just do everything slow see what helps good luck sps can be a pain some tolerate stuff some dont
 
I've always been more of an overstocker as well and certainly didn't intend to run an ULNS, it just sort of happened. I'll give the cyano siphoning and shut down of reactors a try and leave alk alone for the time being. Hopefully I'll see some changes
 
Spartanman22 said:
I've done about 4 5 gallon water changes over the past 2 weeks. It seems to have helped a bit, but if it is a nutrient issue water changes won't help solve the underlying problem
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The underlying problem usualy starts in ur rock and sandbed and in some cases corals are deprived of major and minor trace elements which what they needed to stay healthy and fight off deseases
 
Tank2379 said:
I used it before without issues with other corals in my 40 Frag, but never in a Dominated SPS tank. SPS are to finicky about changes of any kind so I wouldn't even chance it
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I used it twice in my tanks full of sps. No issues other than a foamy skimmer. I took the cup off of my skimmer for a day and then put it back on. It really takes care of cyano!
 
Tank2379 said:
I used it before without issues with other corals in my 40 Frag, but never in a Dominated SPS tank. SPS are to finicky about changes of any kind so I wouldn't even chance it
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Sawdonkey said:
I used it twice in my tanks full of sps. No issues other than a foamy skimmer. I took the cup off of my skimmer for a day and then put it back on. It really takes care of cyano!
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i am going to use it this friday .. hoping what i have really is cyano .. its more like seaweed :dontknow: and what ever i do it always came back :(
 
tinman said:
i am going to use it this friday .. hoping what i have really is cyano .. its more like seaweed :dontknow: and what ever i do it always came back :(
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It's worth a try as I don't see any harm in it. When I first started biopellets I has cyano or something like it and chemiclean cleared it right up.
 
Sawdonkey said:
It's worth a try as I don't see any harm in it. When I first started biopellets I has cyano or something like it and chemiclean cleared it right up.
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Hmmm irony

I ordered chemiclean and would get it Thursday

But I came home and see that all cyano is peeling off :dontknow:

Only things I changed

1. Started rinsing frozen food in rodi water before feeding (started doing this 2 weeks back)

2. Reduced my white lighting by an hour so instead of 6 hours I am doing 5 hours ( started this last Thursday )


Hmmm may be I'll get rid of it after all :)
 
Here's my suggestions based on my last crash:
1. Take carbon reactor and thow it out the window. Or take it to the range, blow up, etc
2. Alk down slowly to 7.5
3. Feed more and get PO4 and NO4 back in tank
4. Raise lights or reduce intensity
5. Do 10% water changes 2x a week to restore trace elements
6. Remove Carbon / GFO and do not use until tank is recovered
7. After recovery use refugium and vinegar/vodka if necessary. KISS principle. :)
 
Bryman thanks for the suggestions! The carbon and gfo reactor have been shutdown. Alk has been about 7.8, I have been feeding excessively for the last several months in an attempt to register nutrients. I currently feed 2-3 a day of frozen and 2× a day with dry. I also dose acropower amino acids. I also have been doing several 10% water changes.

I was just going to mention lights so your mentioning of it is quite convenient. Is it possible that the paling of SPS and base up stn is due to light intensity? I've noticed less stn and recovery of stned pieces in my frag tank, which uses a kessil. My DT uses an OR-T247 which visually is much brighter. I keep the kessil at 100% blue and 70% white at 14-16" above the tank. The OR-T247 has blues and UVs at 25% and whites/reds/greens at 35%. Even at this low of intensity the OR-T247 looks FAR brighter than the kessil. Could I be light shocking my corals?
 
I've reduced light intensity to 10% whites and 15% blues and at this intensity it visually looks "even" with the kessil. I'm figuring I'd do less damage with reduced intensity than excess intensity
 
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