Connecting rods for Evergrow/Reefbreeders fixtures

edsbeaker said:
Hey Dan,
Do you think the extra framing below the rim of the fixtures will block any of the lights around the perimeter?

One advantage about this idea is that I can make the framework the length of my tank and have the freedom to move the fixtures closer together or further apart to see what works best, but still a bit worried that it may bow....
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Thats why was was saying it would be 'braced' with additionally 1x2, obviously at the ends (to form a rectangle) but then 2-3 more through-out. I would think this would stop any bowing.

View attachment 15924
Black being 1x2. Red being the LED Units, only maybe 1/2" resting on the 1x2 so it shouldnt mess the spread up, hung from the corners.
 
I thought maybe a look at the inside of my canopy would help with this. I don't think there will be a way to attach anything to it. There are too many doors. Besides it flipping open from the front, it also has 3 doors in the front and a door on each end. I don't think there is enough solid structure to mount anything on the inside of the canopy. The top of the canopy has 3 solid 2" wide pieces of wood running front to back. One in the center, and one on each end, otherwise the top has two thin non-supportive panels.
I really think I can only hang it from the ceiling, and either support it from underneath like Dan suggested or somehow mend it together with struts like Nate suggested.

[URL=http://s285.photobucket.com/user/edsbeaker/media/IMG_3306_zps90a72376.jpg.html][/URL]
 
herbb if its a single rod, thus only 2 connection points (one at each end) vs. 4 (corners) wouldnt there be a concern of twisting or even tilting if they were perfectly centered/balanced on the rod?
 
DB9181 said:
herbb if its a single rod, thus only 2 connection points (one at each end) vs. 4 (corners) wouldnt there be a concern of twisting or even tilting if they were perfectly centered/balanced on the rod?
Click to expand...

you should check out that strut stuff. you could hang the tank from it. That's why it's 100% better than wood. no twist, no sag, no rot, no warp. Theaters and concerts use it. It's heavier than wood, and harder to work with if you don't have the tools, but it's strucutrally bullet proof in the weight ranges we're talking about here.
 
DB9181 said:
Thats why was was saying it would be 'braced' with additionally 1x2, obviously at the ends (to form a rectangle) but then 2-3 more through-out. I would think this would stop any bowing.

View attachment 15924
Black being 1x2. Red being the LED Units, only maybe 1/2" resting on the 1x2 so it shouldnt mess the spread up, hung from the corners.
Click to expand...

Ok, I really like this idea, and am going with this. Because I have such odd bracing over my tank, having the freedom to move the fixtures has sold me. Thanks everyone for the suggestions, but I think I'm going with Dan's plan but will look into doing it, instead, with metal struts as Nate has suggested.

Anyone think that the closet organizer vertical rails that you put brackets into to hold up the shelving will work?
 
That was just a simplistic design (for me until i build a floating canopy) and best of all.... you can make it literally in like 10-15mins and be done :)
 
I'll probably do this for my units and pick of the wood prior to them arriving so that I can get them hung, and displayed the day they arrive.

I could pick up some extra wood for ya and build the simple frame (assuming you can fit it (length wise) for the drive home. Again, its nothing overly fancy lol
 
Get 2 pieces of L-aluminum and a box of stainless 3/4" screws. Bam done. 1 on each side painted black and ud never see it
 
I'm sure you'll find a great solution amoungst all of the great experience here and I'm always excited to see what creative solutions reefers come up with.

A couple of thoughts on a 4 sided frame. There is no additional length wise bracing in that because while doubling the material for strength you're also doubling the weight of the span by using two lengthwise rails (not a factor if using strut, but also unnecessary). You're also actually limiting the flexibility in light placement because the lights will have to make contact on two points across the span (front to back) by default instead of just one on a center mounted rail. There are brackets and fittings that slide into the track that make the lights esentially infinite in their left to right adjustment and the front to back adjustment can be done by strategically drilling a series of holes or using the long hole strut on the front to back connection point. Erector sets are harder to make than woodworking kits for kids, but they're infinetely easier to play with :) In any case, I love DIY and can't wait to see what you do. Just discussing this is helping me organize my thoughts for my next build too.
 
Herbie said:
you should check out that strut stuff. you could hang the tank from it. That's why it's 100% better than wood. no twist, no sag, no rot, no warp. Theaters and concerts use it. It's heavier than wood, and harder to work with if you don't have the tools, but it's strucutrally bullet proof in the weight ranges we're talking about here.
Click to expand...

Yup, I've used unistrut back when I worked with my dad doing plumbing. It'll hold 4" copper water lines. Not sure how much it weighs but it would be considerably more than a few of these fixtures.

You just would have to mount them solidly inside the canopy. That stuff will literally go nowhere.
 
Herbie said:
I'm sure you'll find a great solution amoungst all of the great experience here and I'm always excited to see what creative solutions reefers come up with.

A couple of thoughts on a 4 sided frame. There is no additional length wise bracing in that because while doubling the material for strength you're also doubling the weight of the span by using two lengthwise rails (not a factor if using strut, but also unnecessary). You're also actually limiting the flexibility in light placement because the lights will have to make contact on two points across the span (front to back) by default instead of just one on a center mounted rail. There are brackets and fittings that slide into the track that make the lights esentially infinite in their left to right adjustment and the front to back adjustment can be done by strategically drilling a series of holes or using the long hole strut on the front to back connection point. Erector sets are harder to make than woodworking kits for kids, but they're infinetely easier to play with :) In any case, I love DIY and can't wait to see what you do. Just discussing this is helping me organize my thoughts for my next build too.
Click to expand...

Put it this way.... I'll see what I find and decide when I go to Menards/Home depot lol
 
DB9181 said:
I'll probably do this for my units and pick of the wood prior to them arriving so that I can get them hung, and displayed the day they arrive.

I could pick up some extra wood for ya and build the simple frame (assuming you can fit it (length wise) for the drive home. Again, its nothing overly fancy lol
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Dan, but I'm still trying to decide if I can make it out of metal, first. I am trying to eliminate the wood braces in the center. Because of my weird tank braces, I may need to have my units butted right up against each other and those wood braces will further block the light into the middle section. This just needs some more thought, but I will be going with this supportive frame idea in one form or another.

Please, though let me know what you find at Menards/Home depot. I think I'll run over there also, and see what I can find.
I'm still wondering if the rails from those closet maid parts will work.

Thanks for everyones help!
 
edsbeaker said:
I'm still wondering if the rails from those closet maid parts will work
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they would, but then you'd probably want two since the're designed for vertical load (that little turn around the open face on the strut is amazingly structural). Any place that sells those sells the strut stuff too. Just look in the section by the "for sale" signs and house numbers. (Or ask for the angle stock if you want to sound pro)
 
Herbie said:
they would, but then you'd probably want two since the're designed for vertical load (that little turn around the open face on the strut is amazingly structural). Any place that sells those sells the strut stuff too. Just look in the section by the "for sale" signs and house numbers. (Or ask for the angle stock if you want to sound pro)
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Thanks Nate,
Now that I looked up the price of them at home depot, they cost basically the same, so I'll go with your strut idea, since they are stronger.

Will a 60 inch X 8 inch rectangle need any additional support? I think the fixtures each weigh about 18 lbs. = total of 36 lbs.?
 
i don't know the specific stats of the struts you're looking at, but I'd bet that it would hold 500 times that.
 
Me personally wouldn't put anything made of a metal that could rust above my tank.

Aluminum-Angle.jpg


or

678.jpg



Available anywhere... Hell come over i think i even have some u can have
 
Is that aluminum Joe? Is it as strong as the metal struts would be, and can you drill holes through it? I like the top one since it has that lip that would prevent the fixture from falling off.
 
Joe5688 said:
Me personally wouldn't put anything made of a metal that could rust above my tank.

Aluminum-Angle.jpg


or

678.jpg



Available anywhere... Hell come over i think i even have some u can have
Click to expand...

that U channel would definitely be strong enough and I agree on the rust, but Krylon fusion could solve that if you wanted to use steel. Aluminum is going to be way easier to drill than steel too and a Hacksaw will cut it like butter. I like the strut because it is sort of read to go with the holes making it more adjustable, but the reduced weight in the aluminum makes it really atractive too. They're all in the same place at the HW store, so maybe going and flexing some in your hand will give you an idea of just how strong either choice really is. I weigh 190 and would probably hang off the Willis tower from either. (1x wood, not so much)
 
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