SkullV's Aquarium Adventures

SkullV said:
I believe it is an RBTA, but a Sunburst is just an RBTA as well, just a different morph. It is still too bleached right now to really tell what color it is going to come out as. I used to remove the false wall from NanoCubes and drill them all the time. That was before cost effective Cube tanks were available though. I would just buy a Mr. Aqua or something like that if you plan to drill it.
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I just bought the IM Nuvo 24, lol. Was looking at the overflows from Glass Holes but really wanted one that was about 2 feet wide and 4 inches long since the Nuvo is a 3ft tank.
 
r33fswagg3r said:
A LFS has a Sunburst Bubble Tip, they say they dose Strontium and thus the color. The picture does it no justice, it's bright pinkish orange.

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That is a bleached RBTA. You see how it is translucent and not full colored (in fact the oral disk is almost totally clear)? That indicates that it is not getting enough light and has expelled its symbiotic Zooxanthellae algae. If that anemone is put in a tank with stronger lighting and fed for a while it will color up and will be significantly darker. It may retain the orange tips, but that thing isn't Sunburst". This is my old sunburst, not translucent at all:

SunburstNem.jpg


Whoever told you that RBTA is colored like that because of strontium dosing is trying to make a sale.
 
I offered to buy it off of them but they refused to sell it, I offered no small amount at that. My RBTA is slightly transluscent at it's base and I target feed it twice a week plus my clownfish host it. Any suggestions?
 
r33fswagg3r said:
I offered to buy it off of them but they refused to sell it, I offered no small amount at that. My RBTA is slightly transluscent at it's base and I target feed it twice a week plus my clownfish host it. Any suggestions?
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More light. Slightly translucent at the base isn't always indicative of bleaching though. Sometimes the oral disk also has white lines which can be mistaken for translucence. I just looked at your photos in your thread and your BTA looks fine. Nice and dark with full color in the tentacles.

Also, feeding does not help reverse bleaching unless there is also enough light for the Zooxanthellae to reproduce and recolonize. All feeding does is give the nem enough energy to not die while it is getting no energy from the Zooxanthellae.
 
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SkullV said:
More light. Slightly translucent at the base isn't always indicative of bleaching though. Sometimes the oral disk also has white lines which can be mistaken for translucence. Feeding won't help reverse bleaching unless there is also enough light for the Zooxanthellae to reproduce and recolonize. All feeding does is give the nem enough energy to not die while it is getting no energy from the Zooxanthellae.
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So if he is stretching himself out more than staying full with the tips closer together then he is probably needing more light, correct?
 
Built the canopy for the sump today. Hides everything really nicely. Now I just need my black vinyl so I can block off everything but the fuge and the frag rack area. The vinyl should be here Wednesday.

Still need to take a look at the stain cards I got to pick a matching color to the stand. The canopy is solid oak so it should look pretty good stained!

Here are some pics. Don't mind the solo cup "breeder" box. It has the little RBTA in it. RBTA started walking around the tank and annoying the zoas so it got the boot. Will be listing it for trade shortly.

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Well it's been a while so I guess now is a good time for an update. Added quite a few zoas/palys over the last couple weeks. I'll try to list them all but might miss some:

  • African Blue Steel Zoanthids
  • Alpha and Omega Zoanthid Morph
  • AOI Zoanthids
  • Armor of God Palys (Morph 2)
  • Campfire Zoanthids
  • Exotic Frags Yellowjackets Palys
  • JF Crazy Lady Zoanthids
  • LA Lakers Zoanthids
  • Magicians Palys
  • Misc. Hawiian PE Palys
  • Misc. Orange Eye/Blue Disk/Orange Skirt Zoanthids (Similar to Coral Compulsion Flaming Rainbows)
  • Misc. Purple Speckled w/Green Skirt Palys
  • Mohawk Zoanthids
  • Mohawks Zoanthids
  • Rasta Zoanthids
  • Seduction Palys

Also happy to say that with carbon dosing the algae in the tank is 100% gone. I have cut back quite a bit on it and think I found a happy medium in water quality for the zoas/palys. Hopefully I will get some new FTS to update the first post tomorrow when the daylights are back on an everything is happy.

Also changed up the Fuge lighting a little bit. Went with a EcoPico "Reef" light arm. Chaeto seems to be happy and I have no more coral in there to keep happy because of this!

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Overall Equipment List for Frag Tank:

  • Deep Blue Professional 12"x12"x12" Cube
  • DIY 1/4" Black Acrylic False Wall
  • Hydor Pico 300 Return Pump
  • Eheim Jager 50w Heater
  • Hydor Koralia Nano 425 Powerhead
  • K1 Biomedia
  • Hydor Smart Level ATO
  • Tom Aqualifter ATO Pump
  • Coral Compulsion Par38 w/Custom LED Spectrum
  • BRS Mesh Top

Decided I didn't like the way the Coral Compulsion bracket mounts to the tank, so I drilled through the wall, used a black plastic bushing to clean up the hole on the tank side, and a little aluminum plate I made on the back side to support the gooseneck. It's holding up a Coral Compulsion Par38 with 9 Royal Blue LEDs and 3 Neutral White (Bridgelux) LEDs that I soldered in:

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Took a Deep Blue Professional 12" cube and DIY'd it into an AIO. The return comes out on the bottom so that when the Koralia Nano 425 powerhead is turned off there is still flow for movement and a glassy surface for top-down viewing. Used the left chamber as a K1 tumbler and the right chamber houses the Hydor Pico 300 return pump, Eheim Jager 50w Heater, AquaClear 70 Carbon Bag, and Hydor Smart Level ATO Sensor:

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Since my only fish inhabitant for this tank is a jumper had to go with a screen top. Cut out a little of the back rail to make room for wires:

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Here is the little Six Line Wrasse (please excuse the TLC Forest Fire Digi, it's just starting to come back around):

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For the main frag rack, I glued the front egg crate foot down with some clear silicone and the back egg crate feet with super high strengh LocTite super glue. The top frag rack is made up of two egg crate pieces and I glued some coated magnets in with the same LocTite glue. Both racks are totally removable and modular. They can be removed/replaced in different configurations at any time (like if I get more high light stuff and less low light stuff):

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Underneath the tank I have a 2.3g ATO reservoir with RODI in it, the Hydor Smart Level Control Unit, Aqualifter ATO Pump (will replace with BRS unit shortly), and a normal power strip:

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The whole point of this frag tank is to have doubles of everything so if something ever happens to my display can just restock right away. I already have doubles cut of nearly all my stuff and this way I can just let things in the display grow out and never mess with them.
 
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Jimbojames said:
lOOKS GOOD, MAYBE WE CAN SWAP SOME ZOAS.
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For sure man. Going to be a little white for everything to start growing out again but I'm definitely up for trading over buying/selling.

The reefer said:
Everything is looking great ted. Its always kool to see ur tank builds.
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Thanks Jaime! This one the emphasis was on cleanliness and silence since it's in my bedroom. I am really happy with the result!
 
emilybear91 said:
I like your innovation Ted. Very nice.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
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Thanks guys! Was actually in PetSmart the other day, was trying to get Emily's attention to tell her not to let you mess with the damn rocks, but she was with a customer!
 
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