Madjoes rebuild

Well fighting dynos tried light out for 4 days that didnt work hr after lights back on they came back. So i added carbon and gfo still nothing but slimey crap. So then i started dosing peroxide didnt see any difference so turned off light for two more days cause that does make it go away and hopefully the peroxide keeps it away turned lights back on today but shortened light schedule 10 am my kessil 150's turn on at 10 am then at noon 2 t5 comes on with the kessils then at 2 the other 6 come on then off 2 hrs later abother two hrs the other t5 turn off then at 9 the kessils kick off ugh . I will tell u blackouts clean the hell out of the tank algae wise but color goes away on the corals
 
I heard bumping nitrates up super high while dosing mag works well. But prob will cause color issues just as quickly as blackouts


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Rcunning8 said:
I heard bumping nitrates up super high while dosing mag works well. But prob will cause color issues just as quickly as blackouts


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Yea i read alot of crazy things out there light its a phosphate issue but only way to beat it is dirty water ? Then heard raise ph with kalkwasser . Heard peroxide works heard they die on there own heard run gfo heard lights out heard takes months heard takes weeks im not sure if anyone really knows what works lol
 
The reason dirty water works to my understanding is because dynos live off of other nutrients that are not phosphate or nitrate. Therefore if you increase nitrate and phosphate u create an algae bloom where those algaes end up not only consuming nitrate and phosphate but also the nutrients that dynos consume as well and these "good" algaes out compete the dynos. Then the dynos die off and u are unfortunately left with another algae problem but one is easy to solve by just water changes and extra skimming/gfo. You can augment this process by simultaneously adding magnesium to the water to like 2000 or something and then this aids in not having to raise nitrates and phosphates that high and therefore u end up with a less bad algae problem than u would have with just the dirty water technique alone.

And just to be clear I never had dyno problem but thought the solution I raid was interesting and ended up reading the whole article because I needed to understand how dirty water could beat a dynoflagellate problem when normal logic would think that would make the problem worse. That's why I love this hobby


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Rcunning8 said:
The reason dirty water works to my understanding is because dynos live off of other nutrients that are not phosphate or nitrate. Therefore if you increase nitrate and phosphate u create an algae bloom where those algaes end up not only consuming nitrate and phosphate but also the nutrients that dynos consume as well and these "good" algaes out compete the dynos. Then the dynos die off and u are unfortunately left with another algae problem but one is easy to solve by just water changes and extra skimming/gfo. You can augment this process by simultaneously adding magnesium to the water to like 2000 or something and then this aids in not having to raise nitrates and phosphates that high and therefore u end up with a less bad algae problem than u would have with just the dirty water technique alone.

And just to be clear I never had dyno problem but thought the solution I raid was interesting and ended up reading the whole article because I needed to understand how dirty water could beat a dynoflagellate problem when normal logic would think that would make the problem worse. That's why I love this hobby


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Yea i know lol i read all about that too if this dont work i will try that the biggest issue with that is i was told at first to get rid of them so i started running gfo mixed with carbon the good news with that is my water is super clear i mean super clear my rocks r algae free and so is the back wall i dont think ive run a tank this dam clean in the ten plus yrs ive been in the hobby. The bad news about that well its the obvious im far from the dirty tank solution now lol geuss its time to take a crap in the tank lmfao
 
madjoe said:
Yea i know lol i read all about that too if this dont work i will try that the biggest issue with that is i was told at first to get rid of them so i started running gfo mixed with carbon the good news with that is my water is super clear i mean super clear my rocks r algae free and so is the back wall i dont think ive run a tank this dam clean in the ten plus yrs ive been in the hobby. The bad news about that well its the obvious im far from the dirty tank solution now lol geuss its time to take a crap in the tank lmfao
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Lol well wait and see man, save the dump for your neighbors porch, maybe the blackout periods solved the issue and u can wash your hands of this problem. What I have seen online is the solution I mentioned above is the last and final solution to end it for good. therefore if what you have done doesn't work then I would try my solution, I think that nitrates have to be up to about 30 if i remember correctly but I would do it slow! One more thing, your tank having clear water not only has to do with your GFO and low nutrients it also has to do with not having lights on for X amount of days as well because there are small particulates of algae in the water that are there when light is present, again another interesting aspect!!
 
So little update . Still dosing peroxide 20 mil twice a day once at lights out about 9pm and once at 5am lowered light scedule . Its still there but looks like its slowly going away fingers crossed
 
Well spoke to soon its back in full force . I guess after im dine fixing wifes truck i will siphone top layer of sand out see if that works
 
Dude try the high nitrates and dosing magnesium I'm telling you the mechanism behind why that works makes complete sense


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