???? nervous?????

I lost my wifi here at home for some reason. I am not hostile. I agree with poidog 100% don't get why none of you can see this. The only question that I am arguing is fact, there are very few things proven fact. Why do people think I am upset, mad or angry? I am not. Just arguing a small point that does not really matter anyways. Is it because I do not live near Chicago, I'm confused why I am being treated as the bad guy, when I'm agreeing with you poidog . Anyways sorry Op for the disrespect. I'll shut my mouth and just browse the site as I have done in the past. This will be my final post to this site, as I feel that dispite having the tank of the month I feel unwelcomed here and an outsider. Thanks for all the comments about my tank. I truly enjoy reading them. Happy reefing to all.
 
Logan 12 said:
I lost my wifi here at home for some reason. I am not hostile. I agree with poidog 100% don't get why none of you can see this. The only question that I am arguing is fact, there are very few things proven fact. Why do people think I am upset, mad or angry? I am not. Just arguing a small point that does not really matter anyways. Is it because I do not live near Chicago, I'm confused why I am being treated as the bad guy, when I'm agreeing with you poidog . Anyways sorry Op for the disrespect. I'll shut my mouth and just browse the site as I have done in the past. This will be my final post to this site, as I feel that dispite having the tank of the month I feel unwelcomed here and an outsider. Thanks for all the comments about my tank. I truly enjoy reading them. Happy reefing to all.
Click to expand...

No need to leave. I don't see anyone treating you as a bad guy either. I love the fact that you are pointed about getting your point across, and I think the fact that you are asking for more than just hearsay in response to others arguments is great!

A few points about the arguments in this thread:

  • CF while it will provide bright light (as read by the human eyes as Lumens) do not provide the necessary PAR to keep a clam anywhere but DIRECTLY under the light. This is due to the weak penetration qualities of the light given off by CF bulbs and also the general design of their reflectors. There were quite a few PAR comparisons done when people began switching over from CF to T5. Very similar to the T5 vs. Halide vs. LED debates that are going on now. I am at the office now but I can find some comparisons when I get home if you would like. I could also do a PAR comparison between an "x" watt PC fixture vs an "x" watt T5HO fixture if you would like.
  • I am uncertain as to where an "Energy Engineer" got the idea that 4 AI SOL fixtures emit 1.5x the light that the sun emits to the reef. There are MANY reef crests where you will see 2000+ PAR under 15 feet of water blasting down on corals.

While I find nothing wrong with the moderation of Reef Central, <<Mod Edit, Personal attack.>>
 
This is another example of mods getting into debates over things. Each thought could have been given and the thread maker giving it his thought into who's advise to use instead it went to a back and forth debate over who is right or wrong (in there own minds) I will ask thread maker if he wants this closed as it will be his option.
 
SkullV said:
I am uncertain as to where an "Energy Engineer" got the idea that 4 AI SOL fixtures emit 1.5x the light that the sun emits to the reef. There are MANY reef crests where you will see 2000+ PAR under 15 feet of water blasting down on corals.
Click to expand...

<<MOD Edit, name calling and off topic.>>

First of all, my statement wasn't about the AI Sol. It was in regard to my previous lighting. You made a determination that was neither expressed nor suggested in order to "debate" me.

Secondly, PAR is not a great measure of intensity as it is specifically geared to address spectrum of light inside of a certain wavelength needed for photosynthesis and excludes all others including infrared and ultraviolet.

Thirdly, I could ask you to source your claim that many reefs around the world have PAR of 2000+ at in excess of 4 meters below the surface, but to be honest, I really don't care to debate with you.

A good friend of mine designs solar panels for applications way beyond keeping a clam alive. Ill take his word for it.
 
jcarlilesiu said:
A good friend of mine designs solar panels for applications way beyond keeping a clam alive. Ill take his word for it.
Click to expand...

Go for it, if you trust him then he is a good source of information. I'll trust a good friends of mine who has done hundreds of dives, with a par meter.
 
Ok so wow this topic blew up
clam is at the top to clear up that. The led lighting is 3watt less
I will do several 50% water changes over the course of the week
Last night I thought about adding more than normal carbon so I did that
as for my sump I added about 3gal of topoff and not adding saltwater
I'm a rookie not a newborn
As for researching on the clam I understan
d they require high amounts of light and confirmed from aquatica where I bought all my lights is that it is sufficiant amount of light . I do think my next thing to buy will be an RODI unit rather than light as I do know water quality is more of an issue as all my corals fish and inverts have flourished in my tank.
 
Navycook2 said:
Ok so wow this topic blew up
clam is at the top to clear up that. The led lighting is 3watt less
I will do several 50% water changes over the course of the week
Last night I thought about adding more than normal carbon so I did that
as for my sump I added about 3gal of topoff and not adding saltwater
I'm a rookie not a newborn
As for researching on the clam I understan
d they require high amounts of light and confirmed from aquatica where I bought all my lights is that it is sufficiant amount of light . I do think my next thing to buy will be an RODI unit rather than light as I do know water quality is more of an issue as all my corals fish and inverts have flourished in my tank.
Click to expand...

Great to hear back from you OP! Sorry for the lively debate we've been having while you've been gone! :lol:

I think that is a great choice. Focus on the water quality first. We are all always learning in this hobby no matter how long you've been doing it for! Keep us posted! :)
 
Navycook2 said:
Ok so wow this topic blew up
clam is at the top to clear up that. The led lighting is 3watt less
I will do several 50% water changes over the course of the week
Last night I thought about adding more than normal carbon so I did that
as for my sump I added about 3gal of topoff and not adding saltwater
I'm a rookie not a newborn
As for researching on the clam I understan
d they require high amounts of light and confirmed from aquatica where I bought all my lights is that it is sufficiant amount of light . I do think my next thing to buy will be an RODI unit rather than light as I do know water quality is more of an issue as all my corals fish and inverts have flourished in my tank.
Click to expand...

do it up
 
Navycook2 said:
I will do several 50% water changes over the course of the week
Click to expand...

Water changes are a great thing to start with. Be sure that your salinity and temperature are as close to matching the existing tank parameters as close as possible.

Good luck, I hope everything comes around.

Let us know how that clam does in the future.
 
Navycook2 said:
Ok so wow this topic blew up
clam is at the top to clear up that. The led lighting is 3watt less
I will do several 50% water changes over the course of the week
Last night I thought about adding more than normal carbon so I did that
as for my sump I added about 3gal of topoff and not adding saltwater
I'm a rookie not a newborn
As for researching on the clam I understan
d they require high amounts of light and confirmed from aquatica where I bought all my lights is that it is sufficiant amount of light . I do think my next thing to buy will be an RODI unit rather than light as I do know water quality is more of an issue as all my corals fish and inverts have flourished in my tank.
Click to expand...

Large water changes can often hurt more than they help. Consider doing daily 20% changes rather than a few 50% water changes. That will allow things to stabilize and allow you to retest between each change to get a good feel for what the water changes are doing for you.
 
Wow way to call someone out but finish reading everything in that post is per my experience. Yes I killed a clam before due to both things being done in this thread it lived for a while then died. No reason to be a dick if u don't know what set ups I have had and what I have kept. I'm guessing I must post each tank set up in detail so u aren't mistaken again. Wow might need to scale back that inner scientist. When answering a question all you can do is post what you know/ learned from your experiences.
 
Thank you AMEN. watch the dk word it isn't in the cussing dictionary but some are very touchy feely here! :hug:
lunacris said:
Wow way to call someone out but finish reading everything in that post is per my experience. Yes I killed a clam before due to both things being done in this thread it lived for a while then died. No reason to be a dick if u don't know what set ups I have had and what I have kept. I'm guessing I must post each tank set up in detail so u aren't mistaken again. Wow might need to scale back that inner scientist. When answering a question all you can do is post what you know/ learned from your experiences.
Click to expand...
 
My salinity last night was 1.024
Temp was at 74/76
When I get off work ill be right on with a water change!.
Now one question can to cold of water have done this? As I stated before the only parameter that was off was the ph
 
Navycook2 said:
My salinity last night was 1.024
Temp was at 74/76
When I get off work ill be right on with a water change!.
Now one question can to cold of water have done this? As I stated before the only parameter that was off was the ph
Click to expand...

It could have, but generally softies will get over it pretty quickly. It is more likely that the dkH buffer you used created a large Alk spike. In the future it is always best to test for things like Alk/Cal before adding anything that could effect them into the tank. Also there is no need to chase pH, unless it is REALLY low or high (like 7.0 or 9.0) it is probably related to test kit/probe error.

I would just do a 20% water change, and tests to see where everything is at. If you still need more changes continue with 20% changes daily until everything balances out.
 
Navycook2 said:
My salinity last night was 1.024
Temp was at 74/76
When I get off work ill be right on with a water change!.
Now one question can to cold of water have done this? As I stated before the only parameter that was off was the ph
Click to expand...

74 is definitely getting on the cold side as far as where most hobbyists keep their tanks, but if this was a contributor, I am not sure. I doubt it.
 
jcarlilesiu said:
74 is definitely getting on the cold side as far as where most hobbyists keep their tanks, but if this was a contributor, I am not sure. I doubt it.
Click to expand...

Plenty of people keep full reefs with seahorses at 74 or colder (Peka on Reef Central has a great seahorse reef). I also kept my "dual nano" system at 74 and had great color/growth out of my SPS. 74 inst a problem unless it was a quick drop.

OP, the MOST important thing in this hobby is stability. The range of "acceptable levels" is actually pretty wide, but its when they move around quickly that things start to have problems.
 
I myself think that cold water will hurt your coral and tap water with chlorine is a bad shock to any tank inhabitants. Only problem myself i had by using my well water instead of RO water was the algae that came along with that type of water. I only use RO water now as i have 3 RO systems but when i need water for a large tank build i go to my local fish store and buy it. Also if your far from a LFS i think alot of large grocery stores/pharmacy's sell RO water at them that is 100% better than straight tap water. Just my thoughts!
 
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