Spartanman22's Fluval M90

Got a new mini-colony this weekend. I think it’s going to outgrow my tank soon

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If I’m not mistaken, that’s a cat tang and they need a lot of room. If you have a bare bottom tank, you can put one of those wrasse beds with gravel in it in the corner of your tank. Instead of sleeping in it like a wrasse, the cat tang will bury turds in it.
 
If I’m not mistaken, that’s a cat tang and they need a lot of room. If you have a bare bottom tank, you can put one of those wrasse beds with gravel in it in the corner of your tank. Instead of sleeping in it like a wrasse, the cat tang will bury turds in it.

Or if it’s misbehaved it’ll just leave its turds sitting there, unburried, in an act of defiance.


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Today was WC day, and I figured I’d run the full gamut of tests while I was at it. I’ve been battling a bit of cyano on the sand bed. Nothing major but enough to be unsightly. After testing, I found my Alk and calcium to be a bit high at 8.0 and 485 respectively. I’ll dial that back down to 7.3-7.7 and 450. I had a consumption spike last week, and I guess I over compensated on the adjustments. The interesting results were NO3 and PO4, which were both zero. Thus explaining the paler colors (not much but ever so slightly) and the bit of cyano.

So, I took out the bag of Chemi-Pure Blue and GFO in the sump. I’ll kick up coral and fish feeding a bit. I think the change to the refugium light, and the subsequent explosion in chaeto growth, just sucked all the nutrients out of the water column.

Also noticed a random spot of STN in the middle of one of the branches on my red dragon. I’m hoping it’s due to me chipping away at my RR Nauti-Spiral the other day. Little chunks and slime got spit throughout the tank. So I’m hoping the STN is just due to a piece landing on the red dragon.

Lastly, magnesium came in at 1500 mg/L. Where do you guys keep yours at? I’ve noticed much better coralline at this level, and it appears the turf algae I had on my live rock is melting away. No impact on the bubble algae though ?


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Lastly, magnesium came in at 1500 mg/L. Where do you guys keep yours at? I’ve noticed much better coralline at this level, and it appears the turf algae I had on my live rock is melting away. No impact on the bubble algae though


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I keep mine at 1350 or so and have a hard time keeping it at that. I dump a bunch in every now and then.

From what I’ve read, it’s not the magnesium that kills algae/bryopsis, it’s some unknown additive specifically in Kent Tech M.....according to Randy Holmes Farley. Whatever kills the algae just happens to come along with a bunch of Magnesium.
 
I haven’t seen a huge decrease in any algae with direct correlation to magnesium dosing, but the coraline algae growth has been through the rough. Interestingly though it never grows on the rock, just the glass.

The red dragon continued STN’ing overnight. I imagine by the time I get home it’ll be gone. Everything else looks good. AlK is back down to 7.7 from 8.5. Fortunately I have a backup red dragon frag doing fine. I think it was a combination of the nauti-spiral chunks hitting it and then the small raise in alk irritating it too much.


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Despite cutting photoperiod of the fuge to 8 hours, removing GFO and chemipure, and feeding WAY more I’m still getting 0’s for PO4 and NO3. Although coral color has darkened up a bit and gotten richer.

So I figure I’ll just keep cramming fish in there until I can get some nutrients! Picked up a pearly jawfish this morning. Pictures to follow.


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So I’m tentatively planning an upgrade, kinda. Tank size is looking to be similar but not an AIO (hate AIO’s!). I’m hoping to do a peninsula style setup right here:

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Plan is to build a stand to replace that cabinet. Want a 36” tank so that I can keep using my ATI, and so that there is still some space on the stand for decorations, etc. That cabinet is 60” long for reference. Needs to low enough of a tank to prevent closing off the space. My wife and I like the open concept and I don’t want to ruin it by creating a wall so to speak.

Right now I’m looking at an Elos 35 but not sold on it. Ideally I’d like dimensions of 36”x18”x16” but can’t really seem to find any of those anywhere.


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Tanks doing well and hopefully I don’t lose everything on vacation ?. Was looking at getting the new Apex and DOS and DDR in preparation for a Trident when they come out, but I’d need 2 DOS and DDR’s for my dosing, and not sure if a third DOS is needed to run the Trident. Well that all adds up real fast. So I’m thinking a KH Director may be a better setup. I’m hesitant though because I currently have a GHL doser and have never had luck maintaining WiFi connectivity with it.

Here’s an updated FTS to kickoff the week.

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Momma clown is pregnant again. This will be the first clutch of eggs since I lost the gig.

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Slowly getting the blue tips on this one

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After almost a year of nothing this is finally starting to encrust and grow. I have high hopes and personally think it’ll surpass the WD

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So I’m tentatively planning an upgrade, kinda. Tank size is looking to be similar but not an AIO (hate AIO’s!).

Right now I’m looking at an Elos 35 but not sold on it. Ideally I’d like dimensions of 36”x18”x16” but can’t really seem to find any of those anywhere.

Fun fact: I'm looking to build myself a custom tank of roughly the same dimensions. Also, your tank is looking absolutely gorgeous... :)
 
Fun fact: I'm looking to build myself a custom tank of roughly the same dimensions. Also, your tank is looking absolutely gorgeous... :)

I’ve considered custom I just need to start lining up some quotes. We shall see. I’m still on the fence about this upgrade. The plan would be to convert my study/fish room into a future nursery so I’d have to move the current setup. My thoughts were to use that as an opportunity to upgrade, but I’ve been going back and forth. My tanks doing well and there’s no real need to upgrade more of a desire, I love tank builds!

The tank has been doing really well lately, thank you for the compliments! The next step will be to add some type of alk control either Triton, GHL KH Director, or Alktronic. Should make vacations way less stressful!


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The tank has been doing really well lately, thank you for the compliments! The next step will be to add some type of alk control either Triton, GHL KH Director, or Alktronic. Should make vacations way less stressful!

I know that they might be overkill on small tanks, but I absolutely love my calcium reactor. They're so much less to think about once they get dialed in. :)
 
Blue is only FTS

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Can someone explain to me why my refugium light won’t work. Here are some screen shots of my fusion. I want it to come on at 10:00 pm and off at 8:00 but can’t seem to get it to work. I set it to ON at 0800 and OFF at 2200 just to test, but no matter what time I pick it won’t work.

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Nothing "looks wrong"...

I'd probably change the Fallback to OFF, but I'd start by removing the shutdown and hysteresis statements until you can get it power in the EB.

You'll need to checking the physical outlet for power with a multi meter...there is some chatter of folks with EBs getting "dead sockets" and/or there could be something bad with your light.

Maybe try the settings on another outlet as well...
 
Blue is only FTS

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Can someone explain to me why my refugium light won’t work. Here are some screen shots of my fusion. I want it to come on at 10:00 pm and off at 8:00 but can’t seem to get it to work. I set it to ON at 0800 and OFF at 2200 just to test, but no matter what time I pick it won’t work.

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If I manually switch the slider to ON or OFF it works it just won’t work in auto. So basically every night I just slide it to ON and then slide it to OFF in the morning. Can’t figure out why auto doesn’t work. Maybe I’ll just set it up as an advanced outlet type.


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Now I just need to focus on getting my GHL doser updated and the app working before vacation.


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Can someone explain to me why my refugium light won’t work. Here are some screen shots of my fusion. I want it to come on at 10:00 pm and off at 8:00 but can’t seem to get it to work. I set it to ON at 0800 and OFF at 2200 just to test, but no matter what time I pick it won’t work.

If changing the hysteresis (delay after temp is hit) doesn't work, I have a hunch it's because of the light itself, especially if it's LED. The digital sockets (1,2,3,5,6,7) on the EB8 do not play well with low power devices. I had to move my LED fuge light (Coral Compulsion Fuge Bulb) from socket 3 to socket 4. Either using 4 or 8 will fix it as those are relay sockets. Fuge light now works fine.
 
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